Overhanging lieback on the 5.9 variation of Peache...
Description
Take the Petroglyph Wall Trail to the interpretive sign at the base of the crag. About 30 feet left of this area, Peaches goes up the prominent right leaning dihedral that is capped by a roof. Climb straight up this dihedral and then escape right around the overhang. The closest escape on the right goes at 5.7, go further right for the 5.5 route. You can take on the 5.9 variation by going left at the roof and doing a sweet, pumpy lieback up the overhanging crack. This climb is well protected and has good rock quality. Walk off right.
The "walk off" is hardly that. It involves quite a bit of worming your way through not so nice prickley bushes and a solid 5th class move with 100+ feet of exposure. If you or your partner aren't comfy with these, I'd highly suggest bringing up a second rope (120' I believe) as there is a rap station on a tree at the top. It's also easy to use said tree as your anchor to belay the second up. No anchor building skills needed.
I led this route on Sunday morning and it was nicely shaded. Had a bit of trouble at the top, needed some extra slings and just ran short. I traversed right of the roof after the crux and continued up the 5.5 route to the top. We knew the descent was a traverse right but it had been a long time since we had been up there and we were a bit uncomfortable with the exposure.
We did not have two ropes and a 60 meter will not reach the ground from the rap ring/anchor. I climbed above the route through a 5.2 section and then we began crossing the terrace,heading east. FYI, if this happens to you, simply head south across various ledges and boulders and the canyon will rise up to meet you. There is a nice 3rd class path that leads down from the terrace. Once you are on the deck, it is about a 5 minute walk back to the base.
There currently (Nov 08) is not an anchor there. The downclimb was a bit of work but we certainly didn't have to do any 'solid 5th class' moves to get down.
There is one section in the walk-off that appears to be quite exposed if you want to walk your way around it, but if you get down and crawl under the bulge that makes it appear so exposed, it's quite safe and easy to get passed without a belay. As of February '09, there is a rap station at the top of Peaches that requires two 60M ropes to rappel. There is also a set of hangers with chains above the anchor to Sumo Greatness that you can rap directly from or use for belaying yourself down to the Sumo Greatness anchor to rap off of that. Both the Sumo Greatness anchor and the anchor above it can be rapped with a single 60M rope.
By David Bayendor From: Denver, CO Mar 25, 2009 rating: 5.7
Walkoff is a little exposed, but careful route finding renders it manageable.
Anchor on tree is quite solid. Bring some extra shoulder length slings to extend the pro you place as you approach the roof.
By staying left and working the crack through the roof, it's a solid 5.9.
Staying under the roof keeps it a good 5.7.
Going right onto the face makes this a 5.5.
By Tyson Anderson From: Las Vegas, NV Jun 14, 2009 rating: 5.7
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