Dean following the classic upper face on Chicken E...
Description
This route begins 25 ft. (or so!) to the right of Ragged Edges, look for the first bolt (it's up there alittle bit!). Climb up to the first bolt, then follow the path of least resistance past at least one more bolt. You will use mostly wires and small cams for the climb but slightly bigger cams can be used at the anchor. I gave this route an "s" per the guide book, however I feel it to be well protected for the solid 5.10 leader. Eating at the all you can eat chicken Buffet prior to climbing this route is, apparently, not recomended!!
To descend either walk off to the west or rap Tonto with one rope (60 Meter).
I didn't think this was under rated. 10b. Big moves between great crimps. The gear is there, too, but often you are forced to do moves above your pro. Maybe scary, but I don't think it deserves an R rating. The Falcon guide gives it a PG rating.
By climber73 From: Fort Collins, CO Nov 6, 2007 rating: 5.10b PG13
I think that many of the routes at Red Rocks are soft for the grade. This felt right on for 10b. Definitely exciting pulling some of those moves above gear and bolts, but definitely not harder than 10b.
A refreshing dose of reality after climbing in the vicinity of the Gallery!
By Danny Inman From: Westminster Apr 24, 2008 rating: 5.10 PG13
This route has thoughtful moves that require good foot work, the gear placements, while adequate, do require some creativeness. A classic single pitch route.
By Gaar From: Springdale / Zion UT Apr 24, 2009 rating: 5.10b PG13
One of the best single pitch climbs I have ever done..(and i've done alot.) Never really felt runout, except for the topout but thats 5.5
The grade is right on at 10b. If low tens are you lead limit, I wouldnt reccomend this climb. The gear is all there but this is a climb in which you need to know what the hell your doing. Alot of little creative placments make this thing awsome!!!
By sam.f From: Hollywood, CA May 4, 2009 rating: 5.9+
I found this route to be quite nice, but felt it was definitely easier and less runout than Sheep Trail, fyi.
finally got around to this today- really fun route with solid gear where it counts- there's one or two tricky placements, but nothing a solid .10 leader should be concerned with. do this and then Sheep Trail for a full value day out at the crag.
also, a 70m rope makes this pretty casual as you can make the tree at the top of Ragged Edges for the anchor rather than the gulley just below.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
