By J. Thompson From: denver, co Apr 13, 2005 rating: 5.10b
The first 30-50 ft of this climb can be confusing.You start by traversing right, then when you reach the "horizontals" you want to head back left-just alittle- and climb up into a "dished out" area. Then traverse up and right alittle to reach the aforementioned shallow, left facing corner/flake thingy. Once there it's pretty much straight up.This climb is a little runout.
The difficulty may be dependent on where you start. I started on the left side of the black streak (there is chalk on the right side also) and found it not too bad. I got protection at approx. the 10 and 15 foot level, then encountered a 20-foot runout. After that, there are many opportunities to place small nuts and cams, some of which are quite shallow and probably would not hold a big fall. Therefore, it is a good idea to place many pieces and not skip any solid looking ones.
By Aaron S From: Vegas May 3, 2007 rating: 5.10a PG13
This line is not at all obvious from the ground but the climbing is awesome once you get on it.
By Jon O'Brien From: Nevada Apr 22, 2009 rating: 5.10d R
awesome route! i followed it and thought it climbed really stout! I wish i had the balls to lead it! an old book says bachar originally called it an 8!
tough onsight- i was wandering back and forth in the horizontals trying to figure this one out- its definitely a path of least resistance sort of thing, but its not always obvious until you gain the shallow left facing dihedrals about 30-40' up. after that, its straight up to the big ledge.
RSS Feed
