30 feet left of Ragged Edges is an obvious finger crack on a low angle face. It is just to the right of a large arch that curves to the right. Foot smears at the start turns into foot jams in the crack. About half way up move out of the crack to the right on the face to jugs at the top. It gets easier as you go. Two stars because decent 5.5's are hard to come by at RR.
Protection
Small to medium pro. Well protected. Slung tree at the top to rap down on a single.
Pretty fun route for a beginning trad leader. No bolts at the top, belay from a tree. If there are slings and rings, you can rap off with a 60 meter rope with about a foot left to spare. (Have you measured your rope?) A fun variation is to continue up the crack instead of heading right halfway up. Then, pull a fun overhangy section and that gets you to the top (5.7).
Rumor has it that someone yanked the rap station on top of Tonto- forcing a walk off. If I get out there sometime soon, I'll take some webbing and replace it, but if anyone beats me to it, we'd all appreciate it...
i went up their in june and left two new webbing rap anchors and two new omega pacific rap rings around the tree, good route you can barely rappel with one 60 meter rope, screw ropes this thing is pretty solid go solo that bitch!
I free soloed this back in 1980, thinking that it might be a first ascent. It was a fun, easy solo.
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Apr 9, 2007 rating: 5.5
Super fun and positive; takes great gear! Make sure your rope is the FULL 60 meters if rappeling; it only makes it with rope stretch. Don't miss this route!! The rappel is really fun by the way...
Climbed this a while back but I remember the gear being absent on the slab traverse. Also, longer runners helpful for the last piece before the slab traverse and after it to reduce drag. Dont be a dummy like me and climb all the way under the roof thinking that was the route ;-) (climbed before the online topo was available)
By marc rosenthal From: Las Vegas, NV Oct 9, 2008 rating: 5.5
I led this route on Sunday, beautiful day for it. Much more aesthetic than my first lead on it (I went up through the chimney, ugh!). Good opportunities to use old fashioned hexes on this route. Check the black marks on the ledge below the station. Your rappel rope should run to the right of the two knobs on the boulder. If you keep the rope there, you will have just enough with the stretch to reach the ground.
There is a significant drop off at the flake. I recommend a prusik to slow your descent over that section. Nice climb!
Led up this yesterday. Two slings and a rap ring were at the top just above Kemosabe. Fun climb that takes nuts or cams. Keep and eye out for rope drag at the overhanging finish. I backtracked and placed a long runner on my last piece to reduce the drag for the belay. Rap off or walk off to the right (past Ragged Edges)
By Tyson Anderson From: Las Vegas, NV May 15, 2009 rating: 5.5
Nice, easy trad lead. Placed up to a #3 camalot but it probably wasn't necessary to go that big.
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