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Just after the upper crux.
This route powers out the overhanging bulge that is the North face of the Meister's Edge block. It requires a good deal of crimping power, as it is essentially a campus board for the first couple of bolts. Higher the route becomes much more technical, with a difficult, sequential and spicy finish.
Immediately right of Meister's edge, on the same formation. Begins down in a bit of a pit.
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 27, 2006
I did not bolt this route, but I RP-ed it in January 2005. At the time a 'local' told me my ascent was the first. At the time someone had scrawled in chalk "13c" at the base of the route. Considering the inaccuracy of the proposed grade, I assume that whomever wrote that did not send it. If anyone knows of an earlier ascent, LMK. Incidentally, I pulled the first (.5" x 4.5") bolt out of the wall on one of my early attempts. Best not to climb this after it rains.
This route is actually pretty good if you're looking for something hard. There aren't too many 5.13s at Red Rocks, and most of those are constantly loosing holds. I suspect this too will get harder with time.
|By peachy spohn|
Jan 2, 2011
I climbed this route yesterday and I was pretty disappointed by the quality. Lots of loose stuff...and the first two bolts are still missing (scary getting to the new first bolt). Also, at the top I think some holds may have broken/eroded away...I felt it was way scary getting up on the last ledge/mantle. I felt it was around .13 b and def. still loose.
Mar 17, 2012
Sent this a few days ago and most of the loose holds are gone, the first two bolts are still missing, and there is a lot of chalk on it. Overall I thought it was a really unique route for red rocks as it has two distinct boulder problem cruxes separated by a huge hueco that you can lye down in. The first crux seemed 13a and the upper crux seemed slightly harder. The route felt harder than Nothing Shocking and Shark Walk, but not as hard as Monster Skank. So hard 13a would be my guess.
Apr 2, 2012
I second that. I climbed this on march 18th or so and thought it was quite good. Although I attempted to boulder it out to the first bolt, I jumped off a ways up and fashioned a stick clip. I think it would be fairly bold to do the start w/o stick clip or crashpad because of a couple of friable holds at the beginning and a tough clip. The rock on the rest of the route seems solid enough. The start is powerful and fun crimping and the end is really great sequency climbing. It definitely feels like two pitches since it's possible to sit in the hueco in the middle. Somehow doing this didn't detract from the quality of the experience!