Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Black Corridor
Show routes:
Select route...
757 2x4 
BCR 5L 
Black Corridor Route 4 Left 
Black Gold 
Bon Ez 
Bonaire 
Burros Don't Gamble 
Burros Might Fly 
CEL, The 
Crude Behavior 
Crude Boys 
Crude Control 
Crude Street Blues 
Dancin' with a God 
Foe 
Fools Gold 
Friend 
Heavy Hitter, The 
Hips Don't Lie (aka Punch Drunk) 
Idiot Parade (aka Need to Rest) 
Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued 
Live Fast, Die Young 
Livin' on Borrowed Time 
M & M 
Michael Angelo 
Nightmare on Crude Street 
Oils Well that Ends Well 
Psychobilly 
Rebel Without a Pause 
Sandstone Enema 
She's Deadly 
Texas Lite Sweet 
Texas Tea 
Thermal Breakdown 
Vagabonds 

Rebel Without a Pause 

5.11a

   

FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 1,333 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2003


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (35)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Rebel Without a Pause


Description 

Hands down the best route in the Black Corridor - it is the obvious line that sits at the mouth of the upper section. It begins on a terrace then climbs up steep, heavily-chalked huecos.


Protection 

Four bolts to a lower off.



Photos of Rebel Without a Pause Slideshow Add Photo
Crux moves at the undercling.

BETA PHOTO: Crux moves at the undercling.

Demo of possible Z-Clip at the third bolt.

BETA PHOTO: Demo of possible Z-Clip at the third bolt.

Beta shot of the bottom section.

BETA PHOTO: Beta shot of the bottom section.

Beta shot of the top.

BETA PHOTO: Beta shot of the top.

From the belay perch.

BETA PHOTO: From the belay perch.

Me, hangin out on Rebel Without a Pause

Me, hangin out on Rebel Without a Pause

the crux move

the crux move

Jeff somehow made this look way harder than it is.  Good thing he's so strong.

Jeff somehow made this look way harder than it is....


Comments on Rebel Without a Pause Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.11a

Fun climbing up steep, positive holds provides a welcome change of pace from the typical Black Corridor slabfest. If you do just one route in the BC make sure it's this one.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Feb 23, 2006
rating: 5.11a

Unfortunately just a little on the short side though...

By Andrew May
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 12, 2006

I agree. I wouldnt mind about three more bolts of that kind of climbing. Fun route and all the holds are right where you need them.

By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
May 17, 2006
rating: 5.11a

This route has awesome moves, with some variety (crimps, jugs, slopes, undercling...) A bit of beta: Be careful of the possibility of a Z-Clip at the third bolt, as you are close to the wall and the bolt. Use the right-handed undercling when moving through the crux, rather than throwing to the top. It's much more controlled, and a very fun sequence.

By Deaun Schovajsa
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 17, 2006

Note to one of the locals - just did this route last week and several of the bolts and one of the anchors is loose and should be replaced.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 7, 2008
rating: 5.11a

The new guide book has this at 11b, Seriously? It's 6 moves once you leave the ledge to the upper left hand jug and the first 3 are good jugs. A good route regardless of the inflation. The anchors are still looking sketchy.

By protohyp designs
Dec 2, 2008

Agreed on the anchors. Pulled out about 1/4-3/8 of an inch. My friend was TR'ing it and was hanging on the anchors for a while....would definitely have to be replaced soon because if someone was saying they were loose in 2006...well you get the picture....