By Ben Boykin Feb 26, 2009
| We found this route TERRIFYING. First bolt required a stretch on "okay" footing, which, if you're not used to this kind of rock, is quite scarey. My partner Squeak didn't fall off. Second bolt, be bold, trust the feet, bolt's OK; step up left, then move to the right on smallish edges to clip the 2nd bolt, which is just beneath a consortium of barf-bucket holds on the right. Make a combo flared hand/fist jam to the left, clipping the third bolt (the feet are on slopers), then move right, mantling onto a large-ish (18" wide) flat spot, place 0.4 & 0.5 TCU's, head for the fourth bolt, and continue deliberately for 40+ unprotected (5.6) feet to the chainless bolted anchor above.
Take some slings for that. They won't show from below, & I am certain that a local will remove whatever you leave there. Besides, nobody in the parking lot can see the anchor. No worries there! |