Tony Bubb nears the top of Marshall Amp (11b) on t...
Description
A nice long route on mostly huge holds. Unadulterated fun. This climb starts up the second big cave/roof at the Stratocaster area and goes up and left to bypass the roof on good holds, then up a hugely huecoed face on huge holds (with a few huge moves) to reach a fixed anchor. Swain's book suggests rapping with 2 ropes, but I recall lowering off and TRing my partner with a single 70M rope.
Location
This climb is the OBVIOUS hueco and jug system starting up the left side of the main stratocaster cave, perhaps 50M past Cut Loose and 30M past Foot Loose. a few minutes South of Running man wall. This is a bit to the left a short bit of the area's namesake climb 'Stratocaster'
A 70m rope works nicely for this route- its so long, but really awesome. The crux is the roof section, but alot of folks will struggle at the start- there are two options, left and right. The right is a little bouldery (if you're short, stack the cheater stones to reach the first hold), the left is a hand crack problem that is probably about 5.10 or so.
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