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Nevada Book 

5.8

   

FA: John Taylor, John Williamson. 10/1973
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II
Views: 805 page views

Submitted By: John Hegyes on Mar 24, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Nevada Book


Description 

Nevada Book is a great climb, much in the same vein as Great Red Book, a route with which it shares a first ascensionist, John Williamson.

The first pitch starts on top of the large boulder and goes up the easy, right-leaning ramp for about 60 feet to a fixed anchor (bolt, nut).

The second pitch starts off with the crux immediately off the anchor. This chimney section is pretty poorly protected, but after a move or two, there is a bomber hold followed by some good pro. Continue up the mellow corner, past a tricky bulge, to the top of the feature where you build an anchor.

Descend by walking to the left, down the Red Heat Gully. There is a single rope rappel from a bush.


Location 

Nevada Book is located in the large left-facing corner about fifty feet to the right of the off-width route Split Crack. There are three bolted face climbs immediately to the left of Nevada Book.

Approach as per Running Man Wall: from Sandstone Quarry parking lot, follow a trail south-east next to the road until a path drops down into a gully past a mushroom-shaped boulder. Climb a water trough past numerous tanks up to a giant ledge and follow this contour south past the Boschton Marathon Block. Nevada Book is on the far right side of the Running Man formations.


Protection 

We used up to a #4 C4 Camalot. The runout may be mitigated with a #6 Camalot or a #4 Big Bro.



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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Mar 24, 2006

Great climb!

There is some chossy rock to deal with.

The descent was a blast and involved a bit of fun, easy down climbing, and we even got to squeeze down a narrow tunnel! Reminded me of my early hiking days in Red Rock, searching through the maze of beautiful sandstone to find our way up or down, and loving every minute of it.