Bob McGowen in 1987, shortly after this route was ...
Description
One of my favorite single-pitch climbs in the country, it is of a piece with other masculine enduro-classics such as Quarter of a Man and Mister Clean. Features slightly overhanging Red Rocks crimping. Starts with a cruxy move by the first bolt (harder if short), followed by a long stretch of 5.10 climbing with no real rests and ends with a semi-cruxy move just below the anchors.
The start of the climb is easy to find with the Swain guide. This climb is in the sun almost the entire day.
Protection
This pitch has about 10 bolts, which some of us consider insufficient for a climb of this length, difficulty and continuousness. The bolts can be easily supplemented with a few nuts in the #1-4 Rock range and a couple of cams in the narrow-to-rattly-finger range. A #2.5 Friend is handy at the start.
I watched Peter Croft solo this climb a few years back. I'm not big into soloing, but amazing to watch nonetheless.
By Ben Ingman From: Denver, CO Jan 16, 2009 rating: 5.11+
Really one of the best pitches around. Worth all the hype. The bolts are placed well for the majority of this climb, with one run-out on relatively easy terrain (between the 2nd and 3rd bolt?). It would be easy to protect this section with a nut or TCU, but if you are attempting this grade it shouldn't be a problem. I remember bringing gear but not bothering to place it because the climbing in the run-out was easy.
However, Peter Croft thought a rope was unnecessary, so I guess it's all personal preference. :)
It can also be difficult to clip the first bolt if you are short.
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