Spectrum 

Very good adventure route. P1 is burly. P2 is spooky looking, but it has more gear than you think/fear. The P3 dihedral is runout at the top, but has easy moves on solid rock. P4 has more good hand crack and is well protected. The fixed anchors run out here. P5 has lots of lousy gear on crunchy, easy rock. P6, the crux, is just a few moves long and can be easily aided. Watch the loose rock sitting in the crack above the horn, you don't want to undo all your progress just as things start to ease up!

P7 can be taken sharply left and connected to the penultimate anchors on Birdland at 5.7 PG/R, which makes for an easy descent.

Does anyone know what the anchors to the right of P3 belong to?

The anchors right of P3 on the face? not sure
To the right in the chasm is Brassballs (5.10), in Swains second guidebook.

Really good line- the loose rock kept things interesting for the entire route. Bolts on the 2nd and 3rd pitch are in excellent shape.

Another option for gaining Birdland is to topout on Spectrum, then downclimb and traverse left to the top anchors for that route.

We also looked around for the rap anchors into the gully, but couldnt find them...maybe we passed them on the way to the top and didnt notice?

Also, we sort of decided that you can really get away with a single rack to 4" and a set and a half of stoppers- the doubles are not necessary as far as we could tell.

We used a standard rack, nuts and cams to maybe four inches. Small cams (aliens) were useful in the hard-to-protect pitches. Over the shoulder runners are useful on several pitches, including the crux.

This route is very good. The rumors of loose rock are true, but it has very little bad rock on it. Once this route see's a few more ascent's it will clean up nicely.

I thought this route was a pile.

THe roof at the end reminded me of Vertigo in Eldo.

Cheers

So, we couldn't see any gear on the first part of that traverse. The first hold I grabbed fell off in my hands and when I stood up to grab the next things didn't feel any better. To top it off, there isn't any gear we could see from the chimney, making a fall off that first 15' nasty as hell.

The book said there is a bolt anchor somewhere on the second pitch but we could see none. Having a little pro to shoot for on the first 15' would have made this doable. Did the fire change something up there or were we just looking at the wrong traverse?

Also, is the .10d variation on the first pitch chossing off? two crimps with rotten feet to bad gear and a fall onto a dead mountain holly? I want to go back and do the thing, but things were looking grim.

tenesmus- the second pitch traverse involves a bit of down climbing before crossing the void- a cam up high mitigates this, but the crux has little/no gear (a microcam at your feet is possible).

on another note- i heard today that the horn (finishing jug) on the roof broke off during a recent ascent- i understand that the route still goes, but the horn is no longer there. I cannot confirm that the grade is still .11a, either.

The horn broke on me at it's tip but it's still a very very good jug,(sorry, momma grows em big), I can't comment on the grade as I didn't send, I had to pull on a piece to get over... The start seemed shady so we actually pulled the brass balls crux(very well bolted one-move wonder) and then traversed into spectrum from that... we also traversed from above the crux pitch directly into birdland before its crux without any problem(nice way to finish)... route was ok but we enjoyed taking turns watching big horn adolescents below us practicing ramming for pretty much the whole day!