Splitting the Straight Shooter wall is a perfect little finger crack. This is Straight Shooter.
There are no feet through the crux and if your fingers are on the large side it will feel harder than 5.9 (it did for me). Very short but fun little climb.
Rap with 1 rope.
* There is a 5.11a right of this route that can be TR'd after SS is led. Thin slab!
Protection
1 set of nuts, double cams .4"-.75, single cams 1"-3.5".
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Nov 19, 2005 rating: 5.9+
This is a good line, one of my favorite short routes in Red Rock.
A couple of thoughts for those considering it:
1) As I recall, a single set of cams to 3" works out okay, although a second green alien may come in handy near/after the crux. Good stopper use will eliminate the need for thin cams down low- save those for the crux.
2) This is a really good practice aid climb. Short enough to not take forever, and straight up and protectable enough to aid easily at C1. Also, you can fix the line and rappel. Practice hauling on the other side of the line, etc, etc. Just make sure if you do this, you're not preventing other folks from freeing the line.
3) This is a great route to see if you're ready to tackle .10a's. It used to be a .10, back in the day, but it really is more like .9+. However, if you can get on this and pull through without too much trouble, I'd go hop on a .10 or two- you're likely ready!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 12, 2006 rating: 5.9+
Solid for the grade. Arguably 5.10a. More physically difficult and less tricky than other climbs at that grade range.
Second pitch looked somewhat dicey and manky. One of the belay bolts at its base was chopped. Very thin off of the ledge, so hard (impossible) to back up the existing bolt w/o committing. Wouldn't want to fall onto that singe bolt with my partner already on it, and nothing else in... Too bad, could have been better than it looked, but w/o an anchor wasn't worth it.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Feb 14, 2007 rating: 5.9
Great route! Good pro and fun moves. Works for all finger sizes. My sausages fit well with long reaches between the thin stuff.
By jblackattack From: las vegas, nv Oct 4, 2007 rating: 5.9
Did this route today on a beautiful sunny day. It was a very fun route although short. Definitely a great test piece to see how you are for 5.9-.10a leading