The Brass Wall is split by a nice looking 2-pitch crack system with a big ledge halfway up. This is Varnishing Point.
P1: 5.5, ~80' Climb an easy crack with good pro to a large ledge.
P2: 5.8+, ~80' Climb up to an overhang and lieback out left following the crack. Clip a bolt on the face before you climb down and right of an offwidth section to the rap anchors on another small ledge. This pitch is full value but takes great gear.
Historical note: FA March 1976, Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton. The name was inspired by the 1971 cult movie "Vanishing Point," which had recently been screened in Boulder.
Although the pitches are short, this is still a fun, worthwhile route to do. We only had gear to a #3, which was fine, but on the initial moves of pitch 1, it would have been nice to be able to sink a #4 cam in above a huge, very suspect looking block, before standing on it. Looks like it'll break off one day. I didn't trust it enough to put my full weight on it, that's for sure!
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 1, 2007
Contrary to the Brock (big red) guidebook, pitch 2 is about 90', NOT 150'. Approx 130' total to ground from the top of pitch 2.
By Steve Blevins From: Sandy, UT Mar 28, 2009 rating: 5.9
Maybe I missed a hold, but the crux moves are as hard as any 5.9 I've done. I had to really crank into the lieback because the patina is so slick my foot popped off with a comfortable lieback start. I found nearby Topless Twins a comfortable 5.9.
steve- there's a key patch of unvarnished rock for that lieback move that keeps it in the 5.8 range- if you missed that, it would probably feel harder.
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