Frieda's Flake 

FA:  Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  3 pitches, 350 feet Views: 177 page views Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Jan 9, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Frieda's Flake. The route climbs the chimney and c...

Description 

This enjoyable route offers a chimney pitch with an awkward narrow crux near the top, before reaching a comfortable belay ledge outside the chimney. Another pitch leads up the crack that is a continuation of the chimney, then out right onto the face and up steep enjoyable climbing to the last pitch of Johnny Vegas, which is the most natural finish. Though Handren's guide describes this route as a two pitch climb, you'd really have to stretch it out to do it that way, and three pitches seemed more comfortable.

Location 

Frieda's Flake is a conspicuous white pillar or flake between Johnny Vegas and the base of the Solar Slab Gully. The route climbs the right side of the pillar. Scramble 4th class from the bottom of SSG area up into an alcove at the base of the chimney. Descent options from the Solar Slab Terrace are well known.

Protection 

Standard rack to 4". Having a big cam (#3 or #4) for the crux is handy, but not absolutely mandatory. Pro options are good throughout if you look around.