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DescriptionThis is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab. Getting ThereTo get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Johnny Vegas 5.6 Trad Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Going Nuts 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Solar Slab 5.6 Trad, 9 pitches, 1220 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Sunburn 5.7 Trad, 12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Sunspot Ridge 5.8 Trad, 12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Rainbow Buttress 5.8 Trad, 8 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV Eagle Wall
There and Back Again 5.8 Trad, 5 pitches, 540 feet Black Orpheus Amphitheater
The Friar 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Sundog 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Sunflower 5.9 R Trad, 6 pitches, 850 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Arch Enemy 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Beulah's Book 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Black Orpheus 5.9+ Trad, 8 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Solar Flare 5.10- Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Eagle Dance 5.10 A1 Trad, Sport, Aid, 11 pitches, 900 feet, Grade V Eagle Wall
Red Zinger 5.10+ Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Levitation 29 5.11 Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Eagle Wall
Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
Eagle Dance 5.10 A1 NV : Red Rock : ... : Eagle Wall
This route is really easy to follow as it takes all the obvious weaknesses and follows enough bolts to never get lost. From a shallow dihedral 50 feet east of a 150' pillar the climb goes up through the Eagles neck on the standard 5th pitch. The overhanging bolt ladder on the 8th pitch is a sandbag but the incredible positioning makes for a pleasant aid pitch. The route continues all the way to the top of the wall and that is worth doing. However...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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