|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 700', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Season:||sunny so better for cooler months|
|Submitted By:||fossana on Feb 16, 2011|
|Comments on Mayday Malefactor||Add Comment|
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From: Las Vegas
Feb 18, 2011
|What did you think of the first 2 pitches? Is pitch 2 a better option than climbing the corner pitches of Sweet Thin?|
By Anthony Anagnostou
Apr 23, 2011
warning: beta dump... the pitch numbers above are a little confusing, and the descent is definitely not the recommended one!
this is the route beta i had:
Mayday Malefactor. 5.10, 5p (or moderate climbing and one move of A0)
Approach: Start from the left side of the Armatron slab in a stance in a dish.
p1) climb up varnished plates,discontinuous cracks, and shallow corners to the bulge on the right side of the huge white hanging face. a stance with a section of poor rock, followed by a short hand crack through the bulge, takes you to a fixed station. ~5.7, ~160'.
p2) continue up the crack for a few yards, then step right (bolts) onto the face. continue up the face on easier climbing (pro will be finicky and iffy here if you want it, slung chickenheads, etc) to a beautiful section of slick varnished rock. Follow bolts up to a steeper section protected with trad pro and pull onto the Sweet Thin ledge. Belay at a fixed station below two diverging bolt lines. 5.8-5.9?, ~175'. It is really nice to have a brown tricam on this pitch.
Note: Mayday Malefactor crosses Sweet Thin here.
p3) step up and right, following the right three bolts past face climbing. then take the shallow right facing corner up, past a small bush, to fun crack and then face climbing past one bolt (crux) to a ledge with a station. 5.10?, ~140'?. you can pull through the crux on gear if you want to.
p4) climb up and left on easy but thought provoking face climbing. pro is finicky the whole way, with dubious huecos, slung featured, and nuts. top out at the notch with a fixed rap station. this is the Humerus Ledge. ~5.7, PG13. ~100'?
p5) walk up and right around the base of the subsummit block. You can finish with the final pitch of the Humerus Finish, or squeeze one more fun lead out on the thin varnished finger seam on the dark face left of the Humerus Finish arete. Follow face climbing to the top (or bail out right to the easier arete at any point). ~.9+, PG13. ~130'.
Descent: See Humerus Finish
Rack: Lots of nuts, including extra small and some brass. Lots of runners, and a few screamers are nice. Single blue alien, double green alien to .5 camalot, single cams to #2. tricams are quite nice to have on several pitches (up to the purple size).
Scofflaw Variation. 5.10, 1p.
The Scofflaw Variation is an alternative pitch to p3 of Mayday Malefactor. It is harder climbing, but less fun and on lesser quality rock.
Climb directly up from the station past three bolts. Move around a big bush and continue up the left facing corner. gain a ledge with another large bush, and pull up above it into a widening crack that gains the left side of a ledge. Place a bomber directional for your second, and belay at the station on the right side of the ledge.
Rack: Same rack as for Mayday Malefactor, but consider bringing less small cams and a few extra hand size. Brass nuts and screamers can be useful. tricams to purple are quite nice too. one larger cam (#3 or #4) would be nice at the top.
descent: summit the brownstone North/East summit by the large pine, enjoy the view/register, and mosey down the quick descent as described for other routes here. going to the gunsight is a fun by involved summit ridge walk followed by an hour's worth of down-slotting and messing around. instead of fifteen minutes of 3rd class to your pack.