This is a fun climb that has an old-school feel to it. It is lesser known and rarely climbed, but a good way to approach the routes on the north side of Brownstone Wall.
Pitch 1: Climb the crack and the face to the left of it for as far as you can, until you can set a belay below the roof. Tricky pro where the crack opens up. 200 feet, 5.7
Pitch 2: Pull the roof on the left side, belay when a stance is found above. 120 feet, 5.7
Pitch 3: Continue up the left slanting wide crack until it ends. Long sections of scant pro, easy climbing. 100 feet, 5.6
Pitch 4: Traverse right on a shelf to the next crack over. No pro. 70 feet, 5.6
Pitch 5: Shoot up the new crack to the top. 200 feet, 5.4
Location
This route is located just inside Juniper Canyon on the right side as you approach, behind the large black boulder just past the mouth of the canyon.
Protection
Bring some wide stuff but realize that there will be some sections that cannot be protected because the crack is too wide. The climbing is generally pretty easy in those locations.
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