Rose Hips 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, 650 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Chris Dabroski, John Hoffman 1999. |
| Submitted By: | John Hegyes on Mar 13, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Rose Hips.
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Description This is a fun climb that has an old-school feel to it. It is lesser known and rarely climbed, but a good way to approach the routes on the north side of Brownstone Wall.
Pitch 1: Climb the crack and the face to the left of it for as far as you can, until you can set a belay below the roof. Tricky pro where the crack opens up. 200 feet, 5.7
Pitch 2: Pull the roof on the left side, belay when a stance is found above. 120 feet, 5.7
Pitch 3: Continue up the left slanting wide crack until it ends. Long sections of scant pro, easy climbing. 100 feet, 5.6
Pitch 4: Traverse right on a shelf to the next crack over. No pro. 70 feet, 5.6
Pitch 5: Shoot up the new crack to the top. 200 feet, 5.4
Location This route is located just inside Juniper Canyon on the right side as you approach, behind the large black boulder just past the mouth of the canyon.
Protection Bring some wide stuff but realize that there will be some sections that cannot be protected because the crack is too wide. The climbing is generally pretty easy in those locations.
BETA PHOTO: Rose Hips is located on the right of the boulder.
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BETA PHOTO: Rose Hips pitch 1
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BETA PHOTO: Rose Hips pitch 2
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Brett pulls the chimney moves on pitch 2
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BETA PHOTO: Rose Hips upper section
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down on pitch 3
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Variation to Rose Hips in the Orange
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By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 20, 2012
| Pitch 1 I found once you start climbing the face the gear is tricky (as John mentions) and can be a little run out.
The next two pitches we did a slight variation:
Pitch 2 We set the belay higher about 40-50ft below the roof. Climb up and then through a tunnel. The tunnel is pretty neat. Climb up the left crack until it ends build a belay. We did not set our belay above the roof.
Pitch 3 Traverse right for about 100ft set up belay as you would on the normal route. I placed a piece at the crack the normal route takes.
Pitch 4 Climb the crack until it tops out.
MysterZ is a better approach for Brownstone. This could be an alternative if there is a line at MysterZ. |
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