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DescriptionThis area has something for everyone. There are good moderate routes on the Rose Tower, Jackrabbit Buttress, and Brownstone Wall. Bigger routes are up at the Rainbow Wall and Cloud Tower. Getting ThereThe climbs in this area are most often approached from the Pine Creek parking lot. Follow the trail toward Pine Creek Canyon. Near the the mouth of the canyon, turn left (south) in the vicinity of the old homestead foundation. Cross the year-round stream and follow the trail up one long switchback to the rolling terrain along the base of the hillside. Climbs in the Rose Tower area depart westward fairly soon, but the trail continues all the way to the Juniper Canyon streambed for access to the Brownstone Wall and Rainbow Wall. Crimson Chrysalis and the Ginger Buttress are reached by crossing the streambed and climbing the steep hillside to the south. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Juniper Canyon:
Geronimo 5.6 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II Jackrabbit Buttress
MysterZ 5.7 Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Jackrabbit Buttress
Olive Oil 5.7 Trad, 7 pitches, 200 feet Rose Tower
Black Dagger 5.7+ PG13 Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Brownstone Wall
Spare Rib 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet Cloud Tower
Cat Scratch Fever 5.8 Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Brownstone Wall
Crimson Chrysalis 5.8+ Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet Cloud Tower
Birdhunter Buttress 5.9 Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III The Rainbow Wall
Armatron 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet Brownstone Wall
Ginger Cracks 5.9 Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III Ginger Buttress
Arms Reduction 5.9+ Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Brownstone Wall
The Nightcrawler 5.10b Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II Brownstone Wall
Power Failure 5.10 Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II Ginger Buttress
Unimpeachable Groping 5.10+ Sport, 7 pitches, 760 feet, Grade III Ginger Buttress
Juggernaut 5.10c/d Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Jackrabbit Buttress
Cloud Tower 5.12- Trad, 6 pitches, 810 feet, Grade IV Cloud Tower
The Original Route 5.12 Trad, 14 pitches, 1000 feet The Rainbow Wall
Featured Route For Juniper Canyon
Black Dagger 5.7+ PG13 NV : Red Rock : ... : Brownstone Wall
This route is on the far left side of the Brownstone Wall and the approach takes about 2 hours. The route is in the sun most of the day so can be quite warm, although the 3rd and 4th pitch are in a recessed chimney and are shady except in the early morning.We had some difficulty locating the start of this route. If you head up slabs which lead to the center of the Brownstone Wall, you will have to traverse left quite a ways to get to the route,...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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