Start just left of the obvious dihedral to the left of Mercedes and climb the steep crack with jugs till it slabs out. The anchors aren't visible from the ground nor the end of the steep climbing. You then break left on the very dark, polished face. You can toprope three other routes once you hit the anchors, which are Gothom City, Spring Break, and Tarantula. All of which are hard trad lines.
This is the steepest trad 5.9 I've been on. Its overhanging, yet tons of huge holds make it 5.9. Take some small gear (black alien) for the top slabby traverse.
a second #2 camalot (or equivalent) will protect the traverse nicely...no need for micro gear.
really amazing climb, though- steep, fun, surprisingly well protected, and a thoughtful finish! full value for sure!
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Oct 4, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Excellent climb! Juggy thuggery on the bottom.... delicate and thoughtful up top. Plenty of protection up top that appears right when you need it (HB offsets went in perfectly). No move is very hard, but hanging out the place gear guarantees a 10- pump.
Be sure to find the best protection possible before starting the traverse to protect your second below.
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