BETA PHOTO: Photo of Rich climbing Magellanic Cloud taken from...
Description
Start up the face just left of the Shady Ladies corner. Climb the left-facing, left-trending corner to a roof. Move right across face, then climb beautiful left-facing corners up to communal belay ledge.
I thought the traverse right across the face towards the roof was pretty scary. Definitely had a few 5.9 moves. You wouldn't want to fall at the crux, as doing so would land you into a potentially painful slab corner.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Feb 14, 2007 rating: 5.8
So so climb with some rope drag problems. Be sure to sling the crux nut or pay the price later. The moves are pretty easy for 5.9, with good holds after a huge rest. Anchor is a nice wad of slings along with a bolt. A few other routes share this same anchor, so be aware of how you clip it up if there is a crowd.
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Apr 23, 2007 rating: 5.9 PG13
I agree with Darshan that a crux fall would be painful, hence I gave the PG-13 rating. The protection is good up to that point, but swinging off the traverse would not be fun...
you can protect the traverse by getting a solid #4 stopper ABOVE the bottom finger lock directly around the corner...but placing it is a little difficult. just come back down and rest after placing it