Midway on Silk Panties with fine varnished holds s...
Description
Those who have never climbed on desert varnish will find this climb a splendid introduction. The "glued on " nature of varnished holds over sandstone provides a unique climbing experience, of which the right hand flake near the first bolt is a fine example. Remember, pull down and not out and don't climb when the rock is wet. One would hate to contribute to the destruction of such an amazing climbing area.
To the right of the pine tree is a large, flat ledge that narrows and angles upwards the farther right you go. It eventually opens up again below a lower angled portion of the face which allows 4th class access to set up tope ropes above. Silk Panties starts midway up the narrow up-angling portion of the ledge and passes 5 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. The 5.7 rating may be a bit generous.
By Daniel Harper From: Menifee, CA May 25, 2008 rating: 5.7
Speaking of the "glued on" nature of varnished holds, all of the hardware on this pitch now consists of FIXE glue-in bolts leading to a TWO bolt anchor with steel quick-links. Safe and fun if you can get there early enough to avoid the crowds.
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