This sunny slab is located to the west of Panty Wall. Runout sandstone slab climbing is the name of the game. Most of the routes are in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. A light rack and 2 ropes will be useful on some of the routes. The area classic is Ultraman 5.8+. You better have have slab technique squared away before hoping on these routes.
Getting There
Approach as for Panty Wall. Follow the trail west out of the parking lot. After heading up the hill and down into the gully, pick you way through the large boulders up the hill. The cliff with a smiley face ledge is the one your are heading for.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ultraman Wall:
This climb starts 50ft to the right of Ultraman 5.8+. The climb starts in a left facing corner in black varnish. A small piece can be placed to protect getting to the first bolt. Follow a total of 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The climbing is just a good as Ultraman, and a little more runout. There is groundfall potential between 30-40ft on the route. Be careful. Rap with to ropes....[more]Browse More Classics in NV
It seems people either love or hate this slabby wall. You don't hear about too much in between. Ive seen 5.10 climbers sketched and 5.8 climbers loving it, and vice versa. I happen to be one of Ultraman's lovers. I guess there's a bit of "runout on slab" concern to think about ,but I felt comfortable leading these routes, as it was somewhat low angle and in the 5.8-5.9 range. Maybe if I have ever actually fallen on slab I wouldn't care for it too much, who knows.(I'm speaking of Clutch Cargo, Ultraman and Speed Racer, as I haven't tried the other routes yet. ) In my opinion ,the "smiley faced" Ultraman Wall is worth hopping on and worth your trip out ,if you don't mind some runout on slab.He (Ultraman W.) is so damn beautiful from afar and near. F.Y.I. These routes are long for sport routes, and I've seen it work best if you bring the second up from the top anchors, instead of trying to top-rope it, but it's a preference thing, as I've seen it done both ways fine.
This is one of the first climbs I led when I moved out here. After my lead, which I found a little spicy, people told me that the rating is a sandbag. Instead of being 5.8 it's really 5.10. Since I don't generally lead 5.10 face, I would agree with the 5.8r rating. There are protection possibilities as well as the bolts, providing you have some nice small gear.
As a new sport lead climber (that did not lead here), I would never take new leaders to the Ultraman Wall. The routes here are extremely run-out, and 2 60m ropes are essential. Ground fall is possible sometimes up to the 3rd bolt. We had veteran lead climbers, and they were even shocked at the run-out. We thought we'd get in a easy day of moderate slab climbing and what we got was heady, "pray your leader makes it to the next bolt" climbing. Unfortunately, the 4 of us would be in the "hate it" category.
I lead Scent of the Ultraman, Clutch Cargo and Ultraman today and really enjoyed all three. Ultraman is the best of the three for sure. Maybe they are a little bit run out, but you aren't going to crater or anything. Keep as much rubber on the rock as you can and you'll be fine.
If you don't have two 60 m ropes there are easy walkoffs both right and left of the wall. The one climber's left is more straightforward, but both are third class.
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