A proud and beautiful line, Gin Ricky ascends the prominent right facing dihedral located on the left hand side of the Alcohol Wall. While it does have a distinct crux section, endurance is the name of the game on this route.
Location
This route is the obvious, clean dihedral just to the right of the Lotta Balls wall.
Protection
A healthy rack, emphasis on small gear (stoppers and cams). Two ropes to rappel.
Really nice. This climb has great movement and a really cool crux sequence that, for me, was not immediately apparent. I would definately bring extra small stuff (purple and grey TCU, green and blue aliens, lots of small wires). 180 ft to the achors = full value.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Oct 28, 2008 rating: 5.10+
Really good route with cool moves and plenty of climbing. The crux is plenty thin and if you have big sausage fingers, expect to be challenged more than a diminutive waif. This route eats up the pro, be it stoppers or small TCU's. Pump factor is not too bad as there are plenty of opportunities to rest, except during the crux section.
For rack I had a full set of stoppers, a couple of small TCU's to 3/4" (could have easily used a triple set here) and then a double set of cams to 3", and one 3.5" cam.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Oct 28, 2008 rating: 5.10c/d
Great route and was very happy that the lead was not mine. Even with my ladyfingers I found the route to have long sections of extremely thin fingers. Leading this route is a great send no matter what your ability is.
Fun & recommended!
By MJW From: Driggs, ID Oct 29, 2008 rating: 5.10c
Ditto on the comments above. I used triples on 0 and 1 TCU's. Much of the crack is parallel so placing nuts is a bit trickier in these sections. Great route to push yourself on as the pro is good and you can get it anywhere you want.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Nov 1, 2008 rating: 5.10c/d
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