Start 20 feet below and 15 feet left of a left facing corner system. Use the big cams you've been carrying in your pack for the belay anchor on this large, albeit exposed ledge. Move up the right trending features past the first bolt to a roof formed by the start of the left facing hanging corner. A blue alien protects the entry into this corner (somewhat spicy to and past this point, PG-13). Let the fun continue as you move up this left facing corner for the remainder of the pitch. Once established into the corner the pro is good. Wherever the crack closes down, there is a bolt you'll gladly clip. A nice ledge with anchors at the top of the pitch. 150' rappel puts you back at the base.
Protection
RP's, Stoppers with extra medium, 2 of each cam from blue alien through 2.5 friend. 10 QD's
Great route, but pretty spicy on lead. Make sure to pay careful attention after you pass the first bolt- pro is sparse and the climbing is tricky.
Above, you'll find a spectacular seam that seem to go forever!
Note: As of Sept '06, the rap station is in bad need of new webbing and new rap rings. If you get back there before I do, please take some and repair it! Thanks!
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins Oct 2, 2007 rating: 5.10b PG13
This pitch is spectacular!! A great warm up for the harder and scarier Mai Tai. A decent #2 camelot protects the moves getting to the first bolt. The crux is getting established in the corner right of the bolt and is a little spicy but not desperate. The corner above has some beautiful climbing with moderate run outs between sections of very good gear and bolts. The rap station had two rings and decent webbing. Chains would be a great addition to this anchor. The bolts are all new and bomber.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Oct 28, 2008 rating: 5.10b R
Really good route. The quasi direct start up a few laybacks in a left facing corner is not too bad, and crossing over to the left to get the bolt seemed solid. After clipping the bolt, I went straight up via thin face moves and entered the main corner system out right fairly high. If done this way, you are not going to get any pro until you are well up and established in the seam. You will deck, for sure if you blow it. But, at least three other people who were there crossed much lower into the corner and appeared to get some pretty good pro as described in the comments above. Anchor was adequate with fairly fresh webbing on 10/25/08
The slabby section below the first bolt are solid moves and relatively grippy rock and didn't seem to get slick until after the first bolt. Starting directly below the bolt would provide an OK landing if you did happen to come off. Starting right in the corner (as Russ mentioned) looked much harder and would certainly provide a worse fall factor.
Crack seemed to take pro when needed and the route provided 2 bolts in the crack section which seemed somewhat unnecessary as passive pro was available. That said....just clip and go!
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