Black Magic 

The second pitch anchor could use an upgrade. There is one bolt and a stuck nut with a cordalette. The cord is run directly through the hanger & nut wire. Best bet is to just make your own anchor and back it up with the bolt or bring a couple quick links and rebuild the cord that is there.

On March 23rd, 2007, the ASCA replaced 4 protection bolts on this route. Three on the first pitch and one on the third pitch. The first bolt is 1/2" stainless, the next two are 3/8" stainless, and the final bolt is 1/2" non-stainless. Thanks to Greg Barnes for the replacement effort.

The reason the final bolt is non-stainless is that it's extra long - 3.75". Those bolts are not made in that length in stainless (2.75" or 4.75" only). The original bolt was not rusted at all, and with softer sandstone the water evaporates through the rock anyway, so it should be fine for quite some time!

The original bolt on the 5.6 variation (the huge left traverse) is bad, and rusty as well since it's in a water streak. We did not replace that one since that variation is rarely done (and my arm was tired!).

Careful with those pebbles on the second pitch -- I busted one off 20 ft out on lead. Spicy!

Intimidating at first, but moves are pretty easy for the grade. P1 is long.

I highly suggest leading directly up the dihedral under the small roof at the start of the route rather than going up left and then traversing back right after the bolts (as the chalk misleads you). This is maybe a grade more difficult, but WAY better movement.

MM

Wish I had tried McMurray's direct line. As it is, the enterprising leader could protect the reachy/stemmy opening moves without the bolts (but with some balls)and turn this into a truer trad masterpiece. (Full disclosure: I clipped the bolts.)

The airy P3 could also have it's bolt skipped for a PG runout move above the bulge. Exposed but very manageable for the grade.

Fun climb. Better than Lotta Balls.

Flash this and do a lap on Lotta Balls for a fun, low-commitment, close-to-the-road 1000ft day of 5.7 and 5.8.

Classic route.

The moves on the first pitch are wonderful, athletic and improbable, but great holds always show up when needed. The big face pitch is an adventure, and though easy, risk mitigation is a little harder to come by than hoped for. Pitch three is massively thrilling, an intimidating lead but all there.

Well said, Chris! Agreed.

The fun starts right off the deck on that first pitch. I enjoyed the delicate/technical sequences right before and after the first two bolts. This pitch will take lots of your smallest cams and tcu's.

Don't be confused by the 3rd bolt on pitch 1: the belay anchor bolt (and cool natural thread) is about 50 feet above.

It was a great route but a bit cold (my partner was freezing in a down sweater) in mid February, I thought the route would get some sun but it never came.

Keep going after the 3rd bolt on the 1st pitch or it makes pitch 2 a rope stretcher. The route soaked up small chocks and TCU's so pack extra.

"Pull down, not out." - Nick Rhoads

John, you need to credit me with that quote. That was awesome when you punched yourself in the face. Ha!

Black Mamba?

Great route. I loved that the cracks and flakes were so friendly for passive protection.

Fun route cool moves at the start and at roof. We did the route with a single set of nuts, hexes 7,8 & 9 and some natural pro made for an even more interesting route.