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First Creek Canyon
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First Creek Canyon

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Feb 16, 2004
Administrator: Larry DeAngelo
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A shot looking into the canyon from the approach. ...


Description 

First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.


Getting There 

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Rising Moons   5.5 PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 380 feet   First Creek Slabs
Doobie Dance   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Romper Room
Algae on Parade   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 600 feet   Romper Room
Romper Room   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Romper Room
Sunset Slab   5.7     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   First Creek Slabs
Lady Luck   5.7     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   First Creek Slabs
Kindergarten Cop   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Romper Room
Hot Flash   5.8     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III   First Creek Slabs
Black Magic   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 580 feet   Lotta Balls Wall
Lotta Balls   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, 420 feet, Grade II   Lotta Balls Wall
Trihardral   5.8     , 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Lotta Balls Wall
Bruja's Brew   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Lotta Balls Wall
Rob Roy   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Alcohol Wall
Gin Ricky   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   Alcohol Wall
Browse More Classics in First Creek Canyon

Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Getting into the business

Gin Ricky 5.10c  NV : Red Rock : ... : Alcohol Wall
A proud and beautiful line, Gin Ricky ascends the prominent right facing dihedral located on the left hand side of the Alcohol Wall. While it does have a distinct crux section, endurance is the name of the game on this route. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of First Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Cool rocks up First Creek.

Cool rocks up First Creek.

The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light from near the road. A long apporach is worth while here. Photo by Tony Bubb, 4/06.

The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light fr...

A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall.<br /><br />Taken 7/11/07

A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall.

Taken 7/11...

Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.

Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.

Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.

Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.

First Creek Walls

BETA PHOTO: First Creek Walls

Looking north from the hike in. Bridge Mtn and Solar Slab are visible.

Looking north from the hike in. Bridge Mtn and So...