Brian leading Shallow Fried Cracken at the start o...
Description
This is the very obvious thin crack going up through the dead center of this section of the crag. The crux is half way up the route on some thin finger jams and face holds. Good route but somewhat serious lead as gear can get thin and its sometimes hard to see your placements and some of the rock might be suspect. Climb with soft sandstone technique and get extra placements in wherever possible. Fun!
Location
Climb the obvious thin crack up the center of this face; the route has a basketball sized hueco just barely to the right of the crack about 10 feet off the ground.
Protection
Trad lead with an emphasis on small pieces (ballnuts, thin cams, brass wires, etc). There are no bolts but sometimes there are slings on the tree at cliff top for rappeling. Walk off is a pretty easy option too; just walk off as "Aliens Have Landed".
Good as TR solo. Easy to reach top by walking down from base of Classic Corner. Top of route is to the left of rappel bush as you look out East.
By Andrew Carson From: Wilson, WY Apr 8, 2009 rating: 5.9
The pro is very acceptable on this excellent pitch, but you can't expect to just plug and go. Stopper placements are plentiful, small cams also, but it's thoughtful climbing. When the black rails run out, in the middle, there's some fragile rock to deal with as well. Still, a very enjoyable climb. It would be simple to toprope.
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