Save the Heart to Eat Later 

This would be a very good route if the original bolter put a little more thought into the proper placement of bolts. This seems to be the Cannibal Crag Curse. Decent routes totally marred by sloppy bolting. Oh well...

This IS a very good route! The first ascent party put plenty of thought into what they considered the "proper placement of bolts" for this route. I just removed an added bolt yesterday (placed lamely before the REAL first bolt). If you don't like the style of the route then don't do it. Placing additional bolts on any established route to satisfy ones' personal preference for safety is unacceptable. If you want to tag the routes at the Cannibal Crag, you're gonna have to sack up a bit! If you're fortunate enough to be there with the Harrisons, I'm sure Richard's fifteen year old daughter Lisa will be happy to waltz up and clip any bolt that may be giving you fits. "Performance with flair or one thats mundane, you get what you give and some get insane".

I like this route. I think that once you have the route figured out it has a nice sequence, big pulls between decent holds, small crimp moves, and a mantle to keep you honest. As well, it has some excitement close to the road. At no time are you unsafe on this one, yet you have to rock climb to do it. In my opinion it is a worthy route that is under appreciated.

This route was right at my limit when I tried it in March. If you're worried about the lead, it's quite easy to lead Baseboy Direct (5.11a) immediately to the left and traverse at the top to set up a top rope. I enjoyed this route very much--it had a series of difficult moves on small edges and slopes.