This is quite a nice climb that rarely gets done. Most people never make it past the sport routes on the Cannibal Crag. The route consits of a right curving crack the follows the hillside up. The first crux comes about 15' up and involves a long reach to a nice finger lock. The second crux is a bit higher and consists of a flared fingerlock to a good hand jam. Make sure to place a piece in the alcove to protect your follower on the crux moves. Coming out of the alcove and traversing the crack to the finish is still a bit tricky.
Location
The obvious diagonaling crack up the center of the north face.
Protection
One .75 camalot and doubles of .50 camalots and smaller should get you up. You will need a 00 metolius for the first crux and a 0 metolius for the alcove. A #2 camalot will protect the final hand traverse.
i'd recommend a set of stoppers, and a single rack to 3" with doubles in the blue metolius to green camalot sizes. i placed way more than i normally would due to the traversing nature of the route in order to protect the second- any fall could be pretty dangerous if you dont sew it up as you're really never more than 15' off the deck.
I thought this was good but not outstanding. Short and the rock is not that wonderful, but still definitely worth doing.
By Jon O'Brien From: Nevada Apr 22, 2009 rating: 5.10d
I LOVED this route! I think it's just as good as Atman or Ying and Yang. 11- is off, it's a 10D but it's good the whole way! Agreed on the traverse, you really need to sew it up for your second, if this climb were higher up on a line it'd be a classic. I thought getting established on the finger lock was definitely the crux. Ouch. Anyone done the direct finish? (the bolts?)
RSS Feed
