Ian Wolfe pulling the crux moves on Caustic Cock. ...
Description
This route follows the stunning arete feature on the NE side of the Cannibal Boulder. Easy climbing up to the second bolt, where the real fun begins. From here it gets steep and interesting. The crux begins after the third bolt is clipped and includes a few desparate moves to surmount the cock, and a very desparate and kind of scary clip for the 4th bolt. From there, a few airy crimpers lead up to bolted anchors.
This is a wonderful spot to get good climbing shots from the ground if you are a photographer. The arete stands out against the skyline from both sides and the overhanging line looks absolutely awesome. Be sure to bring your core face for the onlookers who frequent the area!
Protection
4 draws to clip pro with, and 2 more for the anchor at the top.
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Jun 18, 2006 rating: 5.11b
Someone placed a "new" bolt at the bottom of the route. Climbers used to have a runout to get to the first bolt, starting the nerves before the real fun even began. =)
Edit: I agree with Gary, in that on such a popular route the added bolt down low has certainly saved some injuries.
A local told me that there was originally a bolt there, but it was chopped because of its proximity to a faint petroglyph. The bolt occasionally reappears and is chopped again.
Would be hairy without the 1st bolt. The book mentions a TCU placement, not sure where it would go... The crux is quite pumpy, especially if you try to clip the 4th bolt from down low. Sack up and gun for the jugs, the fall is clean. The top has fixed sport anchors now, only 4 draws required for the route.
This might be one of the best and is definitely the most photogenic 11B in RR. Don't let the description above discourage you. I am the biggest sport climbing wuss there is and I never felt like the 4th clip was "scary" or sketchy in any way...the third bolt is at your feet at worst...as I recall.
I agree with the others, the first bolt is a smart addition. I'm glad FA-party finally warmed up to the idea. I've climbed the route with and without it (as it has been placed and pulled multiple times in the last 10 years)...and it is a bit sketchy without it. The TCU's go in the pockets about 2/3's the way to the second (or first...) bolt. That said, it is sketch just to get there. Much better route with the lower first bolt in place.
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