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Cannibal Crag
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Caliban 

5.8+ R

   

FA: Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten; 1993
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 644 page views

Submitted By: John Hegyes on Feb 1, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: Caliban


Description 

This route climbs Cannibal Crag about 20 feet to the left of the left-leaning crack on the south-east side of the rock. Climb past three bolts to a cold shut anchor. The most obvious line takes you quite far right past the first bolt and then you have to swing back left to the second. Named for a moon of Uranus. A little spicy.


Protection 

Three bolts



Photos of Caliban Slideshow Add Photo
The wandery Caliban.  Thought it was pretty fun.

The wandery Caliban. Thought it was pretty fun.


Comments on Caliban Add Comment
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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Mar 18, 2006

Don't feel bad if have to back down on leading this one.It's sick!

It took three of us to lead it about a year and a half ago.
Sarah clipped the first bolt, I clipped the second and poor J.C. clipped the third (sorry J.C. for telling you there were two bolts in that runout section) It was funny to hear you cuss your way to the top though. Great job! It was on J.C.'s birthday too! Caliban, a birthday gift from Sarah and I.

By harmonydoc
Mar 27, 2006
rating: 5.8+ R

Led this last weekend. Very wandery, the climb traverses away from the bolt line a lot. I was expecting 4 bolts, I only found 3. Managed to get a green Camalot in a horizontal after bolt #3, but still ran it way out to the top. The terrain was moderate enough that I didn't feel too sketched, but I made the people watching from the ground nervous! Decent climb if you are OK with runouts and are comfortable at the grade, otherwise I wouldn't recommend it.

By Ian Wolfe
From: Boston, MA
Apr 28, 2006
rating: 5.8+ R

I was really not a big fan of this route. It wanders all over the place and the climbing, despite being only 5.8, is fairly precarious. There are only 3 bolts on the route, not 4 like Roxanna's book says. On the whole, just not enjoyable. There is a much better 5.8 on the other side of the boulder.

By gilbert.2003
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.8+ R

A fun climb; just don't plan on climbing straight up. Holds are good but you have to wander to get to the bolts and it is a runout to the anchors.

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Aug 21, 2007

Like most here have said, it wanders from the start (out right and back left....then runout). One of the few minority runout climbs....with a possible visit to the hospital if you're not capable of sending the grade. Better 5.8/5.9's around Red Rocks.

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.8 PG13

Not a recommended climb for a 5.8 leader but an engaging outing worth doing if you are in the area. You could take small cams for above the bolts but if you can climb the bolted part you ain't gonna fall from the boltless part.