Wow, this climb is pure joy. It is aesthetic, has fun jams, and good pro. Climb the prominent dihedral that first angles left, then angles right around a corner and out of sight. As you get near the top of the dihedral, you can step left into a bigger and easier crack/gully; or continue in the dihedral and escape with an easy off-width move. Belay at the top of the crack/gully using some smaller cams, or move higher and belay at the top of a flat ledge using a double sling around a big rock and some small cams. The total climb is about 100 feet.
To exit, down climb a short 4th class section and walk down the big ravine (South-West of the belay).
GETTING THERE: From the 1st picnic area at Red Rock Spring head West up the hill and to the right of Jabba The Hut Rock (the first band of rocks). Then, turn left (South) and scramble up a blonde 4th class ramp. This will place you roughly at the base of the Classic Corner.
Loved the route! It was a nice, worthwhile ,after work sort of climb,as it was completely shaded in the late afternoon, with a short, fairly straightforward approach and a friendly walk off. I used med-large nuts and some small cams up to a #3. I felt there was one "reachy" crux move approx. 25 feet or so up for this 5'2 woman(I abruptly blurted "Watch me!") ,but move was well protected, as was the rest of the climb. This climb left me smiling after being so miserable at work all day.Thanks to whoever put this route up!
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Nov 22, 2006 rating: 5.8
Fantastic route following the varnished crack; anytime you think it's getting a bit thin just throw some gear in the crack! New guidebook rates this climb 5.7 but we felt it would be closer to 5.8 for sure.
This is a lovely route that I have been eyeing for some time. I did it as a toprope solo, for which it is well suited, as the top is easy to reach. The only glitch was that, after it was over, the rope got caught on a knob when I threw it down, and I had to free solo Badger's Buttresss in order to free it. But that was fun too.
I thought that this was a true 5.8 compared to Red Rock's generally soft ratings. Handren rated it 5.8 in his new guidebook. A few grunty moves. Fun route to do when it is too cold/windy in the canyons.
This is a great route for a new 5.8 leader because the steep, smooth and slippery varnished face lets you take falls in many places without incurring any injuries other than to your pride. Also, there are multiple options for topping out; one option is to head left across the face around bulging rocks at the top, while another is to grab the rocks and pull over them. My favorite place to belay followers from is on top of those rocks because you can look down most of the length of the climb as you belay people up. A safe anchor can be built at that point with #4 and #5 cams and a slung chockstone in the big crack behind the bulge.
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