This is a great route, but the seriousness of the second pitch should not be underestimated. Edit: There is some decent gear- small cams/nuts a little ways off the belay, so keep your eyes open. Its probably best to link this pitch with the first to keep impact forces down should you blow it.
I'll also chime in and say that the final pitch is more like .10d Its steep and sustained .10 the whole way with a committing crux section that felt much harder. Edit: Upon returning to this route later, i'll agree with Tony- .9ish start to the increasingly difficult corner with a very distinct .10+ crux and a solid .10 finish.
rack- i ended up using a single rack to a #3 camalot with two green camalots on the final pitch, which would be just fine for the first pitch as well. maybe double up on something finger sized or smaller.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Apr 7, 2006 rating: 5.10d PG13
After passing the tree on the top of P1, I felt safe and solid climbing to the first bolt of P2 on this climb as a single pitch. Athough this was some distance the climbing was easier in general than that of the first pitch, perhaps 5.7-. Anyone who can climb this route at all should not fall here. Low odds but high consequences I suppose, though the fall would be long it is not the worst a climber could take, and is on a clean slab. As for the last pitch, 10d is right, but the first 30' is perfect handjams (5.9-) and the second half is considerably harder, yes, about 10d (.75-1.5" gear)
Agree w/ the comment about pitch 2. 2 old(er) bolts protect the crux slab moves, then head up and right, and it's not hard but a bit balancy w/ no pro. If you have a small tcu (purple c3 maybe? - I didn't have) you might fashion a placement on the ledge you're standing on/by. I had only blue metolius and up so I had to pull the rail and slot a yellow or orange (can't remember) metolious in a horizontal. Pro is bomber from then on up the flake. And pitch 3 is worth it. So sweet.
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