Type: Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dave Wonderley, David Evans
Page Views: 5,451 total · 21/month
Shared By: DEE on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A couple of hundred meters up canyon from the Black Velvet wall is the wall with this route. It is marked by a 50-60 foot across arching roof which sticks out 6-10 feet.

Pitch 1: Climb the right side of a small pillar to a bolt (5.9) and then up the face above passing a total of 5 bolts (5.10a) till just below the left end of the roof. Place cams and surmount the roof (5.11a) to a sling belay at two bolts.

Pitch 2: Straight up to a fixed pin then up and right (2 bolts) to a ramp. Back left and up (5.9+ one more bolt) to a ramp/dihedral and belay at the dihedral's top (top of a small pillar) at two bolts.

Pitch 3: Climb face up past 6 bolts (5.10-), veer left (staying away from loose stuff up and right) and up passing three more bolts (5.11/12) to a stance with 3 bolts.

Pitch 4: Climb a crack on the headwall above passing one bolt (5.10b natural pro) to a sling belay.

Pitch 5: Continue up the crack (5.10b) and head out right passing a bolt and two discontinuous cracks to a left facing dihedral(5.10a). Take the dihedral to the top and belay.

Pitch 6: Climb the crack straight above passing two roofs and a wide section (5.10b).

Pitch 7:Climb a short pitch up a right facing dihedral and belay on a ledge at the base of a 4th class gully.

Pitch 8: Up the gully, out a ramp to the right (5th class) and the top.

Descend gulleys to the right with raps and down climbing.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to 4"

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