The Breathing Stone
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Dave Wonderley, David Evans |
Page Views: | 5,451 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | DEE on Feb 20, 2004 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
A couple of hundred meters up canyon from the Black Velvet wall is the wall with this route. It is marked by a 50-60 foot across arching roof which sticks out 6-10 feet.
Pitch 1: Climb the right side of a small pillar to a bolt (5.9) and then up the face above passing a total of 5 bolts (5.10a) till just below the left end of the roof. Place cams and surmount the roof (5.11a) to a sling belay at two bolts.
Pitch 2: Straight up to a fixed pin then up and right (2 bolts) to a ramp. Back left and up (5.9+ one more bolt) to a ramp/dihedral and belay at the dihedral's top (top of a small pillar) at two bolts.
Pitch 3: Climb face up past 6 bolts (5.10-), veer left (staying away from loose stuff up and right) and up passing three more bolts (5.11/12) to a stance with 3 bolts.
Pitch 4: Climb a crack on the headwall above passing one bolt (5.10b natural pro) to a sling belay.
Pitch 5: Continue up the crack (5.10b) and head out right passing a bolt and two discontinuous cracks to a left facing dihedral(5.10a). Take the dihedral to the top and belay.
Pitch 6: Climb the crack straight above passing two roofs and a wide section (5.10b).
Pitch 7:Climb a short pitch up a right facing dihedral and belay on a ledge at the base of a 4th class gully.
Pitch 8: Up the gully, out a ramp to the right (5th class) and the top.
Descend gulleys to the right with raps and down climbing.
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