Triassic Sands 

Despite being one of the shorter climbs in this canyon, (only 3 pitches are usually done...) this is a wonderful route fully deserving of classic status.As well, the 5.10 grade is about right for Redrocks, but be advised that the climb will feel soft for the grade relative to most other areas.

The latest electronic SuperTopo guide has some great history on the first ascent and free attempts of this route, and they call it the first "real" rock climb of any significant length in Red Rocks. Evidently Randal Grandstaff did the first free lead of the crux. I have no affiliation with these guides and I highly recommend their Red Rock guide, although they have upped the price a bit. Cool photos too!

As the guys say, a classic climb! Don't skip pitch 4 - it's another good one.

The only thing I'll add is that a couple of extra hand-sized pieces will make pitches 2 + 3 go a little smoother.

John

Do yourself a favor and climb the 4th pitch. It is one of the best crack/corner pitches I've done in Red Rocks and is much more sustained at about 5.10 than the lower pitches. When I climbed it we summited, but there were fixed bolts at the top of the 4th pitch. I still can't figure out how people stop on the top of the third pitch after looking at the beautiful corner above.

Really amazing climb, probably the best crack climb i've done at Red Rock! It's a crime not to at least climb the fourth pitch, but you really should top out. After a climb that amazing, a summit is in order- rappelling it just seems wrong to me.

Couple of notes: 1) The bolts at the top of 3 are good enough to rap on, but using them as anchor is questionable.

2) The bolts at the top of 4 are good, better than those at three.

3) Theres also a rap station at the top of 5 now (if you're willing to spare a carabiner), although if you've gone this high, you might as well top out.

4) The easiest way off the summit is to head to the ridge, then drop down and left into the gully below the saddle between Whiskey Peak and the Velvet Wall. From there, head uphill to the saddle and then walk out via the Frogland descent, or head downhill to reach the base of the Velvet Wall.

5) Bring (3) #2 Camalots or equivalent if .10c is close to your limit, you'll be glad you did. Double up on the #1 and #3 Camalots or equivalent as well....

This is one high quality route. Bring extra cams from 2-3 inches unless you like to watch the rope dangle far beneath your feet. A must do Red Rocks Classic.

Update from 2/12/06:

One of two bolts atop P3 (that's at the base of the 5.10- dihedral) is wasted - i.e. I could take it out with my fingers. Can supplement the single bolt with some limited gear. Would not want to rap off of that pitch.

Hey folks, a quick note from the ASCA- this route's anchors on the top of the 3rd and 4th pitch were replaced on March 27th, 2006. The protection bolt on the 4th pitch was also replaced.

I'd recommended doing pitch 4 and then rapping...single rope rap as I recall from there, then a double?...we combined p2 and 3 as well. if you're solid on cracks, no need to bring more than doubles. Caveat emptor.

Finally joined this site, Larry didn't even pressure me!

As John posted, we replaced the 3rd and 4th pitch anchors and the pro bolt on pitch 4. Details: the 3rd pitch anchor had 3 bolts, 2 of which had pulled out (a 1/4" split-shaft and a 3/8" Star-Dryvin). I reused the 1/4" hole, patched the 3/8" Star-Dryvin hole, and drilled a new bolt; both are 1/2 x 2.75" stainless 5-pieces. The 3rd bolt is a 3/8" split-shaft bolt without hanger; we didn't have the proper tools to remove this (well, we could have, but that would have risked damaging the rock excessively). I'll try to get back and pull/patch that sooner or later. The rock is not the greatest, and I suspect that even the new 1/2" bolts will loosen in time.

The classic 1/4" Star-Dryvin protection bolt on pitch 4 (photo in Red Rock Odyssey) pulled easily, and I drilled through the lead sleeve with no problem (not something to try if the steel sleeves are still in the hole!). That bolt is also a stainless 1/2" x 2.75" 5-piece.

The funky 5/16" euro bolts on top of pitch 4 were weird, and in a slightly suspect section of rock, so the new bolts are about a foot lower. Those are stainless 3/8" x 2.25" 5-pieces (better rock there), and Anthony Anagnostou helped hand-drill them.

Thanks to Constantine Severis and Anthony for helping out with the replacement! And to the video guys who let me jug their lines to pitch 3, that sped things up. Greg Barnes

I did the route a couple of days ago and assume GB had already been there since all the anchors were big and beefy. Still I would have liked the star bolt to have been left for historical purposes.

Overall the best rock at redrocks I have done so far!!! Can I give a climb 5 stars! It'll be interesting someday when the flake or lodged rocks on pitch 4 come off.

Great Climb! Combined 1 and 2 without any problems. I found it to be perfect hands from the low crux to end of 3. Hexes worked very well. Pitch 4 was amazing, my partner dubiously slung the diving board, stepped up and got this huge grin on his face when he saw the bolt! A climb we'll do again I'm sure. One 60m rope rappell from top of 4 to 3 (29 meters!) then 2 double rope raps

spectacular route! I followed this with Wholesome fullback and thought Triassic Sands was easier IMHO.

I love this route. I think the taller one is the easier the cruxy part feels; I've climbed it twice and both times the crux felt 10c to me (way pumpy!). However, the third pitch (or second, depending on how you run it together) felt mostly physically 5.7 but possibly mentally 5.8.

Classic stuff! We only had opportunity for the first three pitches (late start w/ approaching darkness). Too bad, as P4 looks like an awesome Indian Creek style corner.

The crux of P2 is pumpy, but ample chalk leads the way... Aliens/TCUs protect the business portion of the crux, with a #1 or #2 camalot to finish.

Once past the crux, expect 100+ feet of 5.8 handcrack, with one little section of 5.9. Outside of a short thin section(the 5.9 bit), pretty much #2 and #3 camalots the entire way in the hand crack... so either have plenty of those cams or expect to run it out. I brought a #4 camalot, and got it in on P2 and P3, but a #3.5 would have been better.

P3 is fun, good gear, with a fun little chimney-ish finish.

P4 looks rad! Next time....

Two double raps to the ground. If the belay atop P2 is taken, there is a a bomber set of chains just down and left of the belay that can be used for descent. Apparently the bolt line below this anchor is a 10a sport route. Looks fun too.

The name is somewhat of a misnomer, as the Aztec Sandstone is generally considered to be Jurassic in age, rather than Triassic.
http://3dparks.wr.usgs.gov/coloradoplateau/lexicon/aztec.htm

Wonderful climb nonetheless.

We did this as two parties, following some friends. However, my party took the correct, straight-up start as opposed to a 5.9 OW variation (a #6 proved handy) the other mistakenly took before traversing hard right to the base of the 10C crack. Humour ensued when we informed them their thrutching had been in vain when there is a perfectly easy start.

As opposed to Mr. Bubb, who found this climb soft, I found the crux of this climb to definitely be in at least the 10B range, even as compared to an area like JTree. Granted, I fumbled the crux on pitch 2, my body English prying me out of the crack and pumping me till fall-ure. I'd definitely like to go back and right my spiritual crime though since it is a wonderful climb. Also, did the climb with two #2's and two #3's, so I saved some of my pieces by placing some nuts down low in the 5.8/9 handcrack where the crack pinches down in several places. There were still several 30 foot runouts, but it was protected well enough. An extra #2 would have been nice, however.

Pitch four was indeed good. We both wound up stepping up onto the triangular flake below the bolt, but my friend, pushing off of it on the way down said that it is susceptible to lateral movement, so watch out. Pulling down on it seems to be fine. The crux is slightly bouldery as you have to lock off a jam low and reach high and left. Our friend in the first party compared it to a climb at Indian Creek called The Wave.

Incredible route. Top it out! Pitch 4 is not to be missed - (though my belayer told me after that the block on the left was loose it felt solid when pulled down on). Good anchors. We brought trips in #2 & #3 camalot, plenty of stopper options, should have left the 4 at home.

Agreed, the rating is soft if you only do the first 3 pitches... the real climbing is on pitch 4: definitely harder than pitch 2 (and better!) Rumors of a dangerous 4th pitch are not accurate, just avoid the diving board block before the corner, i'm big and clumsy and had no problem avoiding it.. :-)