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multi-pitch instruction in Red Rock

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By yaniv schiff
Oct 25, 2009

Some friends and i are coming out to Red Rock for the first time 11/6-11/11. We are experienced climbers (sport and TR), but have never done multi-pitch. Does anyone know of a good place to look for a climbing guide that will teach us basic multi-pitch (maybe like a 1/3 day)? Or is there anyone here that would want to come out for a day of climbing? We have all the necessary gear .Appreciate all tips.


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By Greg Barnes
Oct 25, 2009
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.

There's a list of guide services here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/redrocks.html#gearand>>>>>

Hopefully that's current - if anyone spots any mistakes, let me know and I'll make sure it gets updated.


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By Mike Howard
Administrator
Oct 25, 2009
RGG silhouette

I will say Mountain Skills with Jay Foley (see Climbing.com) and Mike Ward (FA Prince of Darkness, Yellow Brick Road and many more)) get my vote. Contact Donna and discuss details 575-776-2222 or climb@climbingschoolusa.com. Find info at http://www.climbredrocks.com/. If you are unfamiliar, getting down off a RR multipitch can be where the true adventure begins. A guide/experienced partner can make a big difference. Good luck.


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By John Wilder
Oct 25, 2009

I always recommend AAI- they're good people- I believe Mary is still their head guide there this season- great lady.

Mike Ward is another good choice, probably the most Red Rock savvy guide anywhere- seeing as he's been climbing here for forever and used to own DRS and the gym.

not sure about Jackson Hole- i heard that Mark Limage isnt here anymore, so i dont know whether they are still actively guiding in vegas or if they've pulled out.


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By scottydo
From san diego, ca
Oct 26, 2009
chalking up at a rest

There's a good climbing store on the main drag that goes into the park area that I think you can hire guides at. I think the place is called Desert Rock Sports. Sweet store and really cool guys who work there.


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By Glenn Gordon
From Buffalo Grove, Illinois
Oct 26, 2009
Halfway up Devil's Tower.

I'll put in a big endorsement for Mike Ward from Mountain Skills http://www.climbredrocks.com/

I've climbed with Mike on Birdland (with my son), and Ginger Cracks. These were some of the earliest multi-pitch climbs I had ever done. The following year I went back to climb Epinephrine with him. He's extremely knowledgeable, a good teacher, and a terrific person too.

He'll teach your friends as much as they can absorb.

-Glenn


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By Michael Kimm
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 26, 2009
Gazing at the Gallery

Not posting to add any new names, just to piggyback on John's post and say that Mark Limage IS still at Jackson Hole here in Vegas, and is another strong choice.


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By smassey
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 26, 2009

Yaniv-
All above reccs are great. Mark and Mike are great guys. Mary is no longer the head guide for AAI; she has moved on to different things for the winter season. I am currently their lead guide for Red Rock. I would love to work with you on some multipitch instruction. If you are interested, feel free to contact the American Alpine Institute office at 360.671.1505 or their website at www.aai.cc. Or send me a personal message through MP with any questions you might have. Cheers
Scott Massey


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By John Wilder
Oct 28, 2009

wow, i must be out of the loop!

great to hear Mark is still here, and welcome Scott- glad to have you here!


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By yaniv schiff
Nov 3, 2009

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Private instructions are just too expensive for me and my friends. If anyone has any interest in coming out climbing anytime between 11/6 and 11/11 let me know.


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By England
From Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 3, 2009
Alpine toothpick.

yaniv schiff wrote:
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Private instructions are just too expensive for me and my friends. If anyone has any interest in coming out climbing anytime between 11/6 and 11/11 let me know.

So your not looking for a guide, just some free instruction.


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By yaniv schiff
Nov 4, 2009

No, we are looking for a guide, we just can't afford the normal rates and were hoping someone out there might like to come out for a day of climbing with some good people. Or maybe someone not associated with a company would want to give a more affordable private lesson.
A very nice and helpful instructor was willing to lower the rates for us but unfortunately not enough.


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By Steve Murphy
From Jackson, WY
Nov 4, 2009

Yaniv, your choices will be limited for paid guiding instruction. It is illegal to guide for pay in Red Rocks (or any public land, for that matter) without a permit. So "anyone not associated with a company" will need to apply for and obtain a permit first. I do not know the cost/time line associated with that, but would expect that it would be a daunting, if not impossible, task to meet your timeline.

One other option would be someone who is in the midst of the AMGA rock certification program; before the advanced portion an aspirant needs to have a certain number of mock guiding days. A downside to this is that they would be required to short rope you down some 3rd and 4th class terrain that you may otherwise walk down. Unfortunately I have no idea how to go about finding such a person, just letting you know such an option exists.

Greg, on your list of guide services you might also want to add:

Alpine Endeavors 877-486-5769 Though primarily a Gunks service, according to the linked website they do offer a limited amount of programs in Red Rocks.

Steve


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