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Nevada Limestone/Sport Climbing Guide?

Original Post
Pete Muffoletto · · Oakland, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

Does anyone know of any current guidebooks or guidebooks that are soon to be in print for Nevada Sport Climbing? I've got a copy of Islands in the Sky but this book is falling apart and more importantly vastly outdated.

Thanks,
Muff

Jon OBrien · · Nevada · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 917

i think the only problems with our incredibly awesome limestone is the parking/ecological issues at many of the crags. i think the secretive vibe is born out of a fear of loss of access if these sensitive areas are approached en masse, black corridor style...

in my opinion, no one should work on a new guide unless they speak with blm/ forest service representatives about ecological impacts and parking at every area entry into the book. blm and forest service are both very amenable to discussions concerning this.

many areas need trailwork, hangar camo, and parking spot installation before a new guide book is released.

i hope that anyone considering a new guidebook or any info dissemination of any kind (including MP) takes into consideration how easily we can lose these obscure places and adjusts their efforts accordingly.

word,

jon

Mike Bond · · Kentucky · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,191
Jon O'Brien wrote: word, jon
I have to agree with Jon on that one.

I think the new stuff at Sub-Urban should be dissemenated and some of the other additions to well documented areas, but many of the known but somewhat quiet and the mostly unknown areas simply can't support the massess. I hear a new G-Book is in the works but I hope it is considerate of the utter lack of parking at a couple of the more sensitive areas.
Pete Muffoletto · · Oakland, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

Great point Jon. Being that I am not a Nevada local I am not aware of all the issues and impacts that some climbers might be imparting in these fragile areas. That being said, the areas that I have been to have seemed to have been pretty well maintained and the climbers and hikers in the area have been civil and respectful. I agree that it is always an important measure consult with BLM as to the impact of massive climbing groups funneling through areas. I have met a few of the developers of the Charleston and Potosi areas and they seemed pretty intimate with the routes as they have put a lot of work into equipping them. I think ultimately these areas will receive more and more traffic as time goes on an it's important to mitigate human impact beforehand rather than after.

Alas, I still want a guidebook...

Jon OBrien · · Nevada · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 917

i think something will surface but i think its going to take a year or more before we see it

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

More like building or creating than equipping.

The damage I've seen done by Non-climbers at MT.Chiselton far exceeds the impact that the climbers have had. The picnic trash, Dog sh*t, Beer bottles, and improvised snowtoys strewn about tell you just how concerned the Forest Service is about ecological impact. The Parking issue also seems to elude them. The area is just not set up for the masses that already infest it. Don't get me wrong I understand they will shut down climbing long before they ban Picnics. I just see the area being destroyed by the current lack of managment and scoff at the thought of them dictating our use. And alas my frustration manifests in this rambling post! Damn the man.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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