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 ADVANCED
High Energy Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diet of Worms T,TR 
Imp-Passible Crack T 
Neutron Star T,TR 

Neutron Star 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Erickson, A. Higbee, D. Breashears, 1975
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 17, 2003

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  • Description 

    This is the next shallow corner line to the left of the prominent dihedral of Diet of Worms.

    This little crag lies about 9 miles from Elephant Buttresses up the canyon. It is best visualized from the uphill side. Scramble up.

    It is easier than Proton, but full value. If you tried Diet of Worms and were flying or scared, prudence might suggest you TR this line. It has less pro.

    Its crux is near its top. Go to the 2nd right sidepull, slap for a left sidepull. Your right foot is key here. Utilize a high left foot. Slap for the top. Ain't 11a either (ya gotta look at the first ascentionists), but it gives you respect for those who tread here before thee. Name is a bit more appealing than its neighbor to the right.


    Protection 

    #3 1/2 Friend, orange alien and tree for anchor. If you TR, a black alien and #3 _ Friend are useful for a directional.



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