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Pentapitch Area
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Neuromancer 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nelson, Oaks
Page Views: 1,946
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Neuromancer climbs the slick slabs just left of Pentapitch, and it looks deceivingly easy. It starts hard and eases up a bit after the 2nd bolt.

Protection 

Neuromancer requires 6 draws And 1-2 small pieces are optional.


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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 23, 2005

got lucky as hell and on-sighted this in july!
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 13, 2005

Is the right arete on? Or do you go straight up the face without the crack on the left or arete (direct bolt line)? I did it basically laying back the blunt arete with one hand, crimping with the other.
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 13, 2005

The older Ruckamn guide says that the arete is "off".
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
May 12, 2006

If the arete is off, this climb doesn't seem like it would be as much fun. But definately harder - as I couldn't figure out the lower face moves; and used the arete ala "Fat Albert". Fun climb
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Jun 8, 2006

spent some time on this don't need to use the arret the moves are there if you can find / stay on them
By Joseph Kolnik
From: Holladay, UT
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I don't know about avoiding the first arete, but if you avoid the upper left arete and go strait up the face this thing is quite difficult. Hence the rating I put on it.
By Aimee Bates
Jun 20, 2009

This climb is really fun! That being said, it kicked my ass. (On TR!) I "climbed" the beginning 3 different ways. Arete on definitely seemed the most feesible. Straight up the face is really hard with no hands and greasy feet. Using the crack to the left is significantly easier, prob more like 5.10a.
By Petz Pretz
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 2, 2009

Smear smear and smear again...sometimes no hands...