Neumühle (Witchcraft)  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  49.8228, 11.3733 Map Page Views:  100. Good page?    Administrators:  MPuser10840, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  MPuser10840 on Oct 12, 2012 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Holmger right in the middle of the crux move.

Description 

This area is home to the classic route Witchcraft. There are 7 other routes here, but nothing easier than 5.12. The climbing is rather technical and fingery and lightly overhanging.
At the base of the other crags right next to this one people (assumably the owner of the land who may not be too happy with climbers) litterally have shat to keep people from climbing there. Despite this, there's one route (MBABA 8+) on one of the neighboring crags.

Getting There 

From inside the Frankenjura head to Behringersmühle near Gößweinstein, then north towards Kirchahorn. You'll drive through Oberailsfeld and when you see Burg Rabenstein (a fortress on top of a cliff right next to the road) park at the parking lot below it.
From outside of the Frankenjura, get on the A9 and take exit 43 at Trockau, take a right at the end of the offramp and head through Trockau and Poppendorf to Freiahorn. Here you'll reach a T where you'll turn left towards Kirchahorn. Drive through Kirchahorn and continue straight until you see Burg Rabenstein. Park at the parking area under the Burg.
Walk back towards the Gasthof Neumühle until you see a little trail and bridge on the right. Hike up this for 150m, hang a left and continue another 120m to a bench. 30m after the bench there's a trail descending down to the crag.

The Classics

Featured Route For Neumühle (Witchcraft)

Witchcraft 5.13  International : Europe : ... : Neumühle (Witchcraft)

Another one of the Frankenjura classics that has gotten a lot of attention. However, this one isn't TOO polished.Climbs great pockets and isn't too bouldery.Climb the slab up past two bolts into the overhang where the fixed draws start. The crux is at the 5th bolt, and then continue up and slightly right to the anchor.Here's a video:...[more]   Browse More Classics in International