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 ADVANCED
Rock Hudson
Routes Sorted
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Absolute Zero T 
Gem Nabors T 
Hot Rocks T 
Ipecac T 
Looney Tunes T 
Nereltne T 
Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 

Nereltne 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 606
Submitted By: Donno on Oct 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: "Nereltne".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

At the left edge of the south face of Rock Hudson, a gully angles 45deg up & right to the base of a short dihedral: this is Nereltne.If this short, steep climb was a full pitch it would be awesome. Pretty easy, and a safe lead, as the wide crack in the corner eats up big cams the whole way. Two bolt rap anchor on top.


Protection 

big cams



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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 31, 2003

The anchor bolts were replaced 2/02. ASCA: "Webbing is still used and will need to be replaced occasionally, since chains would likely mar the rock over time in this instance."

By Woody Stark
Nov 11, 2004

This is a good lead for a novice. I'd call it a six though.If someone chops the anchors, you'll have to jump off.

By Ryan Avery
Mar 26, 2005

I disagre with this being a "safte lead". You are faced with the choice of either running out an easy but steep ramp about 20 feet off the deck, or a wide low angle hard to protect chimney/offwidth to reach the corner.

Otherwise, the climbing is solid and if a full pitch would be a super classic route. Leave the small stuff on the deck as you will only want 2" and higher for this one.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Safe short and easy.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007

Sweet but short wide hands. Easy to protect with a couple #3's and a #4. No problem with the 4th class gully to gain the crack.

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Jan 4, 2009

The gulley eats up almost more time then the crack. I think the bush growing in the gulley is the routes crux. The crack is Really fun though, another J tree crack that is just sadly short.

By JSH
Administrator
Apr 29, 2009

Safe short and easy ... *IF* you're comfortable in the wide, and bring the gear for it.

The 5.8 under the anchors is a nice TR to catch.