At the left edge of the south face of Rock Hudson, a gully angles 45deg up & right to the base of a short dihedral: this is Nereltne.If this short, steep climb was a full pitch it would be awesome. Pretty easy, and a safe lead, as the wide crack in the corner eats up big cams the whole way. Two bolt rap anchor on top.
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 31, 2003
The anchor bolts were replaced 2/02. ASCA: "Webbing is still used and will need to be replaced occasionally, since chains would likely mar the rock over time in this instance."
|By Woody Stark|
Nov 11, 2004
This is a good lead for a novice. I'd call it a six though.If someone chops the anchors, you'll have to jump off.
|By Ryan Avery|
Mar 26, 2005
I disagre with this being a "safte lead". You are faced with the choice of either running out an easy but steep ramp about 20 feet off the deck, or a wide low angle hard to protect chimney/offwidth to reach the corner.
Otherwise, the climbing is solid and if a full pitch would be a super classic route. Leave the small stuff on the deck as you will only want 2" and higher for this one.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Safe short and easy.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007
Sweet but short wide hands. Easy to protect with a couple #3's and a #4. No problem with the 4th class gully to gain the crack.
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
Jan 4, 2009
The gulley eats up almost more time then the crack. I think the bush growing in the gulley is the routes crux. The crack is Really fun though, another J tree crack that is just sadly short.
Apr 29, 2009
Safe short and easy ... *IF* you're comfortable in the wide, and bring the gear for it.
The 5.8 under the anchors is a nice TR to catch.