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 ADVANCED
Magic Bus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf T,TR 
Electric Koolaid S,TR 
Ken Queasy T,S 
Neon Sunset T,S 
Queasy Sunrise S 
Technicolor Sunrise T,S 
Zipperhead T 

Neon Sunset 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: K. Pogue, C. Dodson, '93
Page Views: 4,037
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (168)
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Leading Neon Sunset on a bluebird December day.

Description 

This route is the central route up the wall - the second from the left of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up.

Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor up top. At one time the bolt hangers were red, and still may well be.

Protection 

A set of 11 draws. (9 bolts + anchor)


Photos of Neon Sunset Slideshow Add Photo
Magic Bus
BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus
Having fun.
Having fun.
Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sunrise (right).  Zipperhead starts on the thin crack between these routes.
Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...
Chris Parks follows 'Neon Sunset' (5.8) at the Magic Bus Crag in Red Rocks. Photo By Tony Bubb January, 2003.
Chris Parks follows 'Neon Sunset' (5.8) at the Mag...
Cruising through the fun
Cruising through the fun
onsight leading Neon Sunset
onsight leading Neon Sunset
Sending Neon Sunset.
Sending Neon Sunset.
Topping out Neon Sunset.
Topping out Neon Sunset.

Comments on Neon Sunset Add Comment
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By Casey Flynn
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The Brock and McMillan Guide call this a 5 star classic. I thought it was way overbolted and not that great. A little too much clipping for my liking. Better over than under though, I guess
By gilbert.2003
From: Burke, VA
Apr 15, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A bit over bolted but gotta like it when you get it.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb and great warm-up. As this was my first sport lead in RR, I was rather thankful for all the bolts. ;-)
By Christine Gal
From: lake forest, il
Mar 1, 2009

wow -- don't think I've been on a route with so many bolts in such a short ascend, I nearly z-clipped a couple times... you definitely feel protected on this route.

really fun, warm up climb. someone new on lead might feel right arm getting a little pumped by half way up. it does seem longer than 45' though, especially if you compare it to Technicolor Sunrise.

last links on anchor are getting worn out -- someone needs to cut those two off and be all set with the remaining anchor links.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Apr 13, 2009

9 bolts spaced 5 feet apart or so. The holds are positive all the way up, with a a few high steps and side pulls for the shorter climber.
By billdlee
From: las vegas
Apr 29, 2009

This is really a fun lead. The holds were worn smooth, but still positive. By far the best climb on this wall.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

On 3/3/10, the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 6 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped the new anchor with mussy hooks. The two remaining original bolts are still in good shape.

also, i would note that this is not the left-most of the bolted routes, but rather, the central line up the cliff face. the left most is a 5.9 that ascends the left hand side of the wall.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

An excellent first lead. Just be careful getting to that first bolt; it wouldn't be a clean landing.