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BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus
This route is the central route up the wall - the second from the left of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up.
Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor up top. At one time the bolt hangers were red, and still may well be.
A set of 11 draws. (9 bolts + anchor)
Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...
Chris Parks follows 'Neon Sunset' (5.8) at the Mag...
Leading Neon Sunset on a bluebird December day.
Sending Neon Sunset.
onsight leading Neon Sunset
Cruising through the fun
|By Casey Flynn|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2007
The Brock and McMillan Guide call this a 5 star classic. I thought it was way overbolted and not that great. A little too much clipping for my liking. Better over than under though, I guess
From: Burke, VA
Apr 15, 2007
A bit over bolted but gotta like it when you get it.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007
Fun climb and great warm-up. As this was my first sport lead in RR, I was rather thankful for all the bolts. ;-)
|By Christine Gal|
From: lake forest, il
Mar 1, 2009
wow -- don't think I've been on a route with so many bolts in such a short ascend, I nearly z-clipped a couple times... you definitely feel protected on this route.
really fun, warm up climb. someone new on lead might feel right arm getting a little pumped by half way up. it does seem longer than 45' though, especially if you compare it to Technicolor Sunrise.
last links on anchor are getting worn out -- someone needs to cut those two off and be all set with the remaining anchor links.
|By Lluis Penalver-Aguila|
Apr 13, 2009
9 bolts spaced 5 feet apart or so. The holds are positive all the way up, with a a few high steps and side pulls for the shorter climber.
From: las vegas
Apr 29, 2009
This is really a fun lead. The holds were worn smooth, but still positive. By far the best climb on this wall.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
On 3/3/10, the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 6 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped the new anchor with mussy hooks. The two remaining original bolts are still in good shape.
also, i would note that this is not the left-most of the bolted routes, but rather, the central line up the cliff face. the left most is a 5.9 that ascends the left hand side of the wall.
|By Josh Cameron|
Jul 4, 2011
An excellent first lead. Just be careful getting to that first bolt; it wouldn't be a clean landing.