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Neon Lights 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: [Art Higbee, Jim Erickson, John Ruger, Ed Webster, 1975]
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 794
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 6, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Near the crux.

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first pitch (5.10b) is mostly a matter of commitment if you are 6'0" or taller. At 5'10, the move starts getting 'big.' The gear is only so-so and requires the leader to trust some odd holds. The climbing gets easier after the big move, but the gear does not get good for a while. Rossiter said this is "unprotectable." I disagree, but will admit that the gear is a little iffy. The second pitch (5.11a) is a blast. Tape up, take 2 sets of cams and enjoy the ride.


Protection 

The protection on the "rarely done" first pitch crux is a poor pink or red tricam above some nuts that are lower down. The second pitch, which is easily reached without doing the first can be protected with a few bolts and hand-sized cams.



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By Chris Dawson
From: Denver, CO
Jul 18, 2002

After pulling the roof on the first pitch, it is very easy to move left onto Sunset Boulevard (just after the crux) and enjoy the steep huecoed climbing on that pitch.

By David A. Turner
May 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

2nd pitch: great pro (including a #3 1/2 Camalot), super fun, very steep.