||Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 525', Grade V
|Consensus: ||WI6 [details]|
|FA: ||FFA: James Blench, John Lauchlan, Albi Sole|
|Page Views: ||1,625|
|Submitted By: ||Dave Rone on Oct 17, 2010|
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Undoubtedly the best-known and most popular of the Stanley Headwall routes, Nemesis satisfies! Climb two pitches of variable and sometimes rotten grade 4 ice to a big ledge at 2/3rds height. The crux 3rd pitch involves steep, sustained climbing on typically good ice. A final short pitch leads to the top.
Beware of avalanch hazard on the approach slope leading to the climb, and from huge, invisible slopes above the route.
Nemesis is the furthest route up-valley on the headwall, and can't be missed. It is about 200 m past Suffer Machine, an obvious route that likely won't quite be reaching the ground.
Rappel the route, or from a v-thread on the left side (climber's left) of the top of the route, rappel to anchors (bolts) on the far left side of the ledge. From here, one more rappel (60m) will get you to the ground.
A good selection of medium and long screws for protection and belay anchors, and some cord for v-threads. Be prepared to make a rappel anchor at the top.
Starting up Nemesis at first light.