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d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
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Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Glyptodon T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Nemesis 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Larsen, DIck Williams, John Hudson, Jim McCarthy, and Phil Jacobus 1966
Page Views: 1,320
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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A terrible picture of Nemesis, with the actual cra...

Description 

A friendly boulder problem crux and nice climbing above make this a fun one. Almost always open.

P1- Boulder up the thin crack and head through some interesting climbing going straight up to the ledge. Climb straight up past a left-facing corner, then head right to the other left-facing corner. Follow this to the top until you're at the nice belay ledge.

P2- Tricky for tall folk. Step left and climb the obvious overhang. Head up past some loose stuff to the GT and a belay tree.

P3- Climb up the left facing corner formed by the massive jutting block. Work up the arete of the block, a little ways above your gear. Short but fun.

Alternate start for P1 at the next crack on the right. Same grade?

Location 

Just right of the Glyptodon corner at the first thin crack.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2"


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By Willow Toso
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 3, 2010

Combine pitch 1 and 2 for an awesome climb! Gear off the deck is tricky.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Sep 22, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There is some discrepancy as to which crack actually is Nemesis, but both seem .10a and poorly protected.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 23, 2014

Hmmmm... would have felt better with a bouldering pad. Once you figure out the beta it's not soooo bad but a fall in the first 10-15' would really suck. Once you're past the crux you get some way better holds to place gear from. I used the left crack and face holds and even got a wide stem over to the right crack. Fun climb.
By Eugene Kwan
Jun 3, 2014

Start is quite scary. I'd also recommend a bouldering pad. Great route. We finished on Armadillo, which was excellent as well.
By teresamatrix
From: New Haven, CT
Oct 6, 2014

If you want to skip the sketchy start, you can climb the big right facing corner 10 feet to the left (Glyptodon) and then traverse over some loose flakes to meet up with the rest.