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DescriptionThere are a bunch of neglected granite walls up in Neff's Canyon that you can camp at. I believe they are mostly trad climbs but there may be some sport. Getting ThereNeff's Canyon is the canyon exactly South of Millcreek Canyon up in Olympus Cove. There are a few walls not far up the right hand canyon- direction is pretty self-explanatory- and another area up the left hand canyon. To get to the one up the left hand canyon (Chadborne) go up past the grove where the canyon splits to left and right and keep going up until the trail descends. At that point there will be a trail to the right that just looks like a game trail and you follow that trail to the cliffs. A bit of a warning, this trail is steep, switchbacky, and pretty long. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Neff's Canyon:
Feature Attraction 5.11a Sport, 60 feet Chadbourne Crag
Inconthievable 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Chadbourne Crag
No Man's Land 5.12b Sport, 60 feet Chadbourne Crag
Slice of Pie 5.12b Sport, 50 feet Chadbourne Crag
Featured Route For Neff's Canyon
No Man's Land 5.12b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Chadbourne Crag
Right in front of the grove of trees uphill from Slice of Pie and the second deep cave of the crag. Climbs out steep pockets via big moves to a large rail three bolts up. The rest of the route traverses up and right on adequate holds. This is pretty soft compared to the other .12s on the wall, and thus probably a good choice for breaking into the grade. Getting off-route at all after the fourth bolt will lead you to a garden of choss. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT |