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 ADVANCED
Black Magic
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Magic S 
Chalk on the trigger S 
Climb Interrupted  S 
Helix S 
Kronk S 
Lock and Load S 
Needles and Pins S 
Orogeny S 
Problem Child S 
Simian S 
Stay on the Porch S 

Needles and Pins 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: N/A
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Jeff Larson on Sep 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Jon Scoville pushing through the crux on a lovely ...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not sure who put this up; rumoured to be called "Needles and Pins" Like many early AF routes this one's still cleaning up. Should be 11A when it does. Can feel much harder if you don't find the sequence (or clean holds). Take a brush....

Starts off with some stemming in a corner, which leads to a fun crux with some descent exposure. Good rest after the crux, then follows a crack to the chains.

Location 

This is the right-most bolt line on the wall to the right of the cave.

A few feet right of Orogeny.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-chain anchor.



Photos of Needles and Pins Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Scoville starting up the slabby, stemming bit.
Jon Scoville starting up the slabby, stemming bit.

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By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Soft for 11a. But a decent warmup for the better routes at the crag. Watch for loose rock from your climbers left foot. Unlike orogeny it's as chossy as it looks. Should continue to improve w traffic