So I just joined a rock gym a month ago, and absolutely love bouldering. For the first month at the gym I got free rentals, and no that that first month is over, I need to buy my own pair for shoes. The rental shoes that the gym provided were Mad Rock Badger, and I wore a 10.5. Any recommendations for what shoes I should get, and how the size would compare to the Mad Rock Badger?
Pretty much any shoe is going to be better than that.
Lots of people are gonna come on here and tell you that when you're just starting shoes don't matter and just get one that feels comfortable. That is not really true especially for bouldering and if you are planning to climb outside. (If you only climb in the gym then shoes don't really matter because it's just the gym and most footholds are huge.)
I would recommend something like the 5.10 anasazi VCS with onyx, Evolv Pontas, or La Sportiva Katana. These shoes are aggressive enough to climb hard but not overkill. Unfortunately you will have to try them on to know which feels best on your foot and size. If you are near a good climbing store they may have ones you can try on. If not you have to order and plan on sending back.
People will also say don't go too small. But for bouldering if there is any room in the toe, it's no good. I downsize only 1 size from street shoes these days. Used to be more.
I recommend Evolv Defys or Pontas, or something of that nature. In my experience with evolv, which is quite a bit, they fit snug but comfy at your street shoe size, and you can get a performance fit if you go a half size down
My vote is the la sportiva muira vs. I find them to be the best all around shoe you can get. Love bouldering in them. Steep/ overhung sport. Steep face and slab. And quite a few trad routes. Been threw like 8 pairs. Keep going back. For pure bouldering I go with solutions. And for pure face I go with testarosas. All are great shoes. But the muira vs can do what the others do and more. I wear size 8.5/41 in all 3 shoes. Size 9.5/42.5 street shoes.
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