Need input on Idaho route maintenence.

Hi All,
We generated some cash from the recent Dierkes Lake boulder-fest and we are looking for input on how best to use the $ on route maintenance.

Most of the bolted routes in the Dierkes Alcove are 20+ years old and some bolts do need to be checked / replaced.

Options:
1. Replace suspect bolts on popular routes.
2. Replace chain anchors with quick-clip anchors on popular routes.
3. Put up new routes.
4. Use the $ on routes just at Dirks - or also other areas?
5. Other ideas?

Thanks!
Dave Bingham

I'm not local, but I wouldn't suggest putting the money into Quickclips. They are expensive and encourage TRing directly through the anchor, so get worn out quickly. Just use something like 4-1/2" quicklinks on the anchors, or one quick link with a single link of heavy chain (1/2") below on each bolt: they work well, are fairly cheap and are easily replaceable. I would think replacing bad bolts should be a priority.

I'm mixed on using publicly generated cash for new routes. As a new router myself, obviously it is nice and very helpful when people donate to help me along, as it does get very expensive. A little financial pain does help keep the urge to put up a mediocre route in check though and save the bolts for a real classic. If you have some new routers who naturally have that self discipline, but are short on cash, than fine, but if routes are going in that are so so I think your community will be better served using the cash for upgrading old gear with better quality camoed stuff.

I would spend it on replacing old bolts and anchors. I too would suggest not using the quick-clips for the reasons mentioned. I have always preferred rap rings. I might also suggest buying beer and lunch for a trail maintenance crew. Nice work on getting the money.

Thanks for the input. The fixe anchors are indeed expensive, but I'm getting tired of schneblies taking the lowering biners!

New routes Dave, new routes..... :-) Sorry I didn't make the clean 'n crank (work). If you need help cleaning/re-bolting etc. give me a call.

Not a local.

Replace old manky hardware first. No point in good anchors with nice lower offs if no one wants to climb them because of bad bolts.

Re: Chain vs Quick Clips. I've found it really depends on the "nature" of the area. Is it a full day destination where you're likely to find "more experience" climbers who can safely use chains while knowing to use their OWN gear for TRs? OR is it an "after work" "outdoor gym" vibe where clientele struggle to quickly thread the chain and then TR through it anyway? Yeah Yeah, we should all teach the noobs how to do it properly but that can be a never ending battle...

Really, it all come down to what the local "vibe" is at your location re: anchors. There's a trad place near me I'd be annoyed to see QQs on and the "after work crag" where QQs are on every route (or soon will be).

If you do want to go quick clips, you can put together a "Mussy Hook" setup (2 Hooks and 2 1/2in QuickLinks) for $8 if you do some internet shopping. More durable and cost efficient than the spendy anchors. They have their limitations though so in some areas, TRUE steel biners with chain might work better.

Old bolts? Scary! Replace those things.

Bingham? Duh! You buy beer.

My vote would be replacing suspect hardware. Even though we all know we should be checking bolts before relying on them, we also all know when you're pumped, you just want to clip and rest.

Use the cash for replacing anchors, trailwork, and other access related issues. I'd be upset if my money went to a new route fund if i didn't know about it in advance since i spend a fair amount of money on new route hardware. If it was advertised that the money could be used for new routes, then it is fair game.

5. Investigate the cause of the mysterious excretions on the route "Where God Changed His Oil".