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By Greeley
Feb 16, 2014

I'm going to be in El Paso for work and I want to check out Hueco Tanks while I'm there. I was hoping you MP folks could give me advice on where to go. Some factors to consider:

1) I'll probably have three days to climb (Sat.-Mon.) if my skin can last that long;
2) I'll be by myself (so that rules out roped climbing);
3) I'll need to rent a crash pad;
3) I only boulder up to V3 locally (weaksauce, I know) and I have no idea how that will translate at Hueco.

Given all that, what's my best bet? Rent a pad and make a reservation for the North Mountain? Try to set up a tour for one of the other areas? Which area has the best concentration of easy-ish boulder problems? Any other options?

Any advice will be repaid in karma points and/or beers if we happen to meet up while I'm there. Thanks!


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By AndyMac
From Center, CO
Feb 16, 2014

North is easiest, reservations are nice and don't cost any extra, but probably not needed now that the rodeo is over. Tours, commercial is expensive but always available, volunteer is harder to get but cheaper and can be quirky. Lots of rules, but they'll fill you in. Maria is cool as shit! Stop at the old Hueco Pete's for gear and pad rental(~1mi off hwy).
Tons of easy stuff everywhere, the Warm up Boulder has great easy stuff, down by the end loop has Melonpatch (hardest move off the ground) which is a super classic! and many other good problems. Get on No One Here Gets Out Alive, 100 Proof Roof, Ghetto Simulator is an awesome 35' jug haul to a few crimps guarding the topout, ramp at your back the whole way if you need to step off.
Try harder too, Lobster Claw, Baby Martini, Sign of the Cross are other great problems to try as well even if you can't send this trip.
Enjoy the desert for me!


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By Sheldon Deeny
From Odessa, TX
Feb 17, 2014
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What dates will you be there? I'm planning on climbing North Mountain next Monday, February 24th. It wont be too difficult to get onto North Mountain and I will have a few crash pads. The areas I want to climb at have good problems V1-V5.

There is also a chance I may find a volunteer tour on Sunday.


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By Greeley
Feb 17, 2014

AndyMac - Thanks for the advice. Exactly what I was looking for. Any thoughts on a good guidebook for the North? Book of John vs. Book of Matt vs. something else?

Sheldon Deeny - Thanks for the offer, but I will miss you by a week. I'll be there Mar. 1-3.


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